02-05-2006, 03:38 PM
For Sale: Big Ass TRD Sway Bar Set
Brand New, Never modified (to clear ABS sensor)
Adjustable front and rear, 3-way
Bushings, D-clamps with grease fittings
Boxed and ready to ship
Asking $450 shipped or OBO.
Pictures can be seen here (http://trdswaybars.blogspot.com/)
Email me here (email@example.com)
02-21-2006, 05:29 PM
just for personal clarification - what's the different between these and, if they exist, regular TRD sway bars? performance difference? physical differences?
02-21-2006, 09:34 PM
This is from www.mvpmotorsports.com:
First I apologize for the delay in being able to give everyone an official response from TRD. This is my first experience with the bureaucratic red-tape you have to go through to communicate with a large company, its not a pleasant experience. But after hours of phone calls and holding I have an official response and explanation.
Please read everything carefully below and then ask any questions you may have.
Information and Explanation On the Adjustable Bars
First, the original information I received and passed along to everyone about them being adjustable has now turned out to be incorrect. Originally I told everyone that the front bar was going to be made adjustable from 45% stiff to *more than* 45% stiff. As it turns out TRD made the front bar from 45% stiff to *less than* 45% stiff. The inner most holes on the front bar are the 45% stiffer than stock setting. The outer most holes are, as best TRD can measure, 27% stiffer than stock. The middle hole is, as best TRD can measure, 36% stiffer than stock. In other words the outer most hole is very similar to the regular TRD Sway Bars you can buy from any TRD dealer.
I had wondered about this ever since I received these adjustable bars. I kept one set of the original non-adjustable BigAss bars from our last group buy. When I received the new adjustable bars I put them next to the original non-adjustable bar and I was curious as to how the new adjustable bar was stiffer. Physics tells me that the outer most hole is of course the loosest setting, and I was thinking to myself “how is it possible that the outer hole is 2” further out on each end but its still 45%?” I dismissed it and just figured TRD made the walls thicker on the bar itself, thus making it stiffer. Looking back I sure wish I would have questioned TRD on it more, but I figured they knew what they were doing.
As everyone probably recalls I told you the front bar was going to be 45% stiffer at its loosest setting and about 79% stiffer on its stiffest setting. All of this information came from our TRD sales representative. So in a nutshell I passed along incorrect information based on incorrect information I had received and I apologize for that. If I had originally spoken with the TRD engineer (which it never crossed my mind to) then I would have had the correct information from day 1. Instead I spoke only to my TRD sales rep and somehow they got their paths crossed and thus I / you were told that they would be made from 45% stiffer up to 79% stiffer. So again, the correct information is that the front bar is 45% stiffer on the inner-most hole, 36% stiffer on the middle hole, and 27% stiffer on the outer-most hole. This makes a lot more sense to me because the inner-most hole on the adjustable bars is in the same place as the only hole on the original non-adjustable bars. If my digital camera wasn’t broke I’d take a picture of the 2 bars right now to show you this, but since its broke I’ll have to wait.
Also, just FYI, the rear bar is 27% stiffer on the outer-most hole, 40% stiffer on the middle hole, and 53% stiffer on the inner-most hole.
Just to double check that the walls were in no way thicker on the inside I weighed the original non-adjustable front bar and the new adjustable front bar. The original weighs 16.80 pounds & the new weighs 17.60 pounds. The small difference is of course from the extra material that makes the new bar longer. If the new bar was really 79% stiffer then one of two things would have to be true: 1) there would have to be a hole on each side located closer to the center of the bar than on the original bar, which there is not; or 2) there new bar would have to be thicker either internally and/or externally which it is not. I already knew it wasn’t thicker externally because I was able to use the exact same bushings. So clearly my TRD sales rep did give me incorrect information when he told me they were going to be 45-79% stiffer. In actuality they are 27-45% stiffer. This, however, is really good news, leading me to…
The way to make the front bar clear the ABS sensor, as we have already discussed here, is to shorten the bar. The front bar needs 1” taken off of each end. This will cause you cut about half way through the outer-most hole of adjustability, the 27% stiffer than stock hole. You will still keep the 36% stiffer and most importantly the 45% stiffer hole completely intact.
You can cut the front bar rather easily. You could use a grinder, an air saw, a band saw, or even a hack saw and do it by hand, but that is obviously the least desirable. If you have a grinder or air saw or band saw it will take you less than a minute to cut off an end. Anyone not comfortable with doing this modification himself or having it done by your mechanic is welcome to send the front bar to me and I will do it for you. MVP Motorsports (not TRD as they refused) will cover the cost of shipping from you to MVP and from MVP back to you. If you want me to modify your bar for you please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org or 817-439-4888 to arrange everything.