Anybody got any AEM questions? We've got several AEM tuners on this forum that would be glad to help you out.

Chris.

Yes, feel free to post up any questions regarding the AEM EMS, and I will be happy to try and help you out!

Do you know if there will be a way to calibrate the speedo in the future, for those of us with a 6spd with an auto rear end?

No, the vehicle speed signal is not altered by the AEM.

Do you know if there will be a way to calibrate the speedo in the future, for those of us with a 6spd with an auto rear end?

Does Toyota sell different speedo gears for the Supras?

Anyone know if there will be an option do to that in the future?

The AEM has no control over the signal going to the speedo. WHat you need is a dakata digital signal processor. I know Sound Performance Stocks these!

Jason.

Hey John Reed, i was wondering how much you guys charge for aem+installation+tuning. I have a 1995 fully built Na-t with a t67 p trim turbo and 272 cams. Also what aem should i use 30-1100 or 30-1101. Thanks

The AEM has no control over the signal going to the speedo. WHat you need is a dakata digital signal processor. I know Sound Performance Stocks these!

Jason.

What exactly is that?

I have a question. How safe will it be to set up the 2-step on my stock Hitachi turbos?
Maybe 5-10 pounds?
Thanx-jt

Hey John Reed, i was wondering how much you guys charge for aem+installation+tuning. I have a 1995 fully built Na-t with a t67 p trim turbo and 272 cams. Also what aem should i use 30-1100 or 30-1101. Thanks

Give Jason a call at the shop, and he can give you a quote! 503-546-9900

If you have a 2JZ-GTE swap with the harness, then use the 30-1100. If you simply built and turbo'd your GE, then use the 30-1101. Unless you are trying to run a weird combination of ignition system parts, which I am not aware of.


John

I have a question. How safe will it be to set up the 2-step on my stock Hitachi turbos?
Maybe 5-10 pounds?
Thanx-jt

The two step without any retard/anti lag applied should get you the boost you are looking for without a lot of stress on the turbos.

When I start my car the idle goes to about 3400 rpms and after about 40-50 seconds it will slowly start to lower to what it normally is about 1200 rpms.
My neighbors love my Supra in the morning.

Thanks.

Has your idle control been tuned properly? Assuming no mechanical problems or vacuum leaks, it sounds simply like the idle control may need to be tuned.

You can send me a copy of your calibration file and I can take a look at it.

jreedracing@hotmail.com

I'm setting up a Mustang Accufab 90mm TB on a 2jz motor. I can adapt the GE IACV to work with the Accufab idle air bypass, but it requires a custom adapter to fit the stepper motor on the TB.

The other option is using the OEM plunger-style IACV from a Mustang which the TB is designed for. Unfortunately, the Mustang IACV is driven by a PWM signal. I need full control of idle including engine temp compensation and idle jack for the AC. Does anyone know if a PWM channel of the Supra EMS can be used for comprehensive idle control?

Thanks!
-scott

I'm setting up a Mustang Accufab 90mm TB on a 2jz motor. I can adapt the GE IACV to work with the Accufab idle air bypass, but it requires a custom adapter to fit the stepper motor on the TB.

The other option is using the OEM plunger-style IACV from a Mustang which the TB is designed for. Unfortunately, the Mustang IACV is driven by a PWM signal. I need full control of idle including engine temp compensation and idle jack for the AC. Does anyone know if a PWM channel of the Supra EMS can be used for comprehensive idle control?

Thanks!
-scott


PW#1 is pin 20A for the 30-1100 AEM EMS. You can use this to drive the Mustang IACV, and you will have all of the functions of idle control the same as you would the stock Supra IACV.

PW#1 is pin 20A for the 30-1100 AEM EMS. You can use this to drive the Mustang IACV, and you will have all of the functions of idle control the same as you would the stock Supra IACV.

Really?... It includes the engine temp comp table and idle jack? That's fantastic.

Thanks John!
-scott

Really?... It includes the engine temp comp table and idle jack? That's fantastic.

Thanks John!
-scott

Yes, that will all work just like stock! The AEM idle control really works great, with either style of idle motor.

There are a few options that need to be setup for the PW idle motor. The best is to review a Mustang calibration file, and copy the specific settings to your calibration. Let me know if you need any assistance!

Hey John,

Do you have a vacume diagram for the GM boost control solenoid handy? I had a link to the AEM forums, but they're down again.

Hey John,

Do you have a vacume diagram for the GM boost control solenoid handy? I had a link to the AEM forums, but they're down again.


http://69.56.180.194/test/pics/boostsol.jpg


Let me know if you are using a different wastegate setup!

The two step without any retard/anti lag applied should get you the boost you are looking for without a lot of stress on the turbos.

Thanx-jt :aiwebs_01

John -- brilliant thanks!

what would be the best boost controller to install that will work well with the aem set up for my 2jz

what would be the best boost controller to install that will work well with the aem set up for my 2jz

Are you asking which solenoid to use with the AEM, or which boost controller to use?

I recommend you get a quality boost control solenoid (GM, Greddy, APexi, etc) and connect it to the AEM for boost control. When properly tuned, the AEM is one of the best forms of boost control there is.

Hey John,
I bought the Innovate LC-1 with XD-1 gauge from HPF and I was wondering how do I hook the LC-1 to the AEM???
There are 7 wires:
Red 12v supply--I have it going to the fuse box under the dash on drivers side
Blue Heater/Sensor Ground--Chassis ground or Should I hook it to the battery???
White System/Controller Ground--Either 65B or 72B on AEM??????
Green Analog Ground--65B or 72B?????
Yellow Analog Out 1--Not Used
Brown Analog Out 2--47B on AEM
Black Calibration Wire--Not Used

Let me know how it should be hooked up the right way. Also, how do I add the LC-1 to the O2 Sensor Wizard and setup the O2 Cal Table???? Thanks for any help you can give me.

John thanks for the quick reply This whole aem is new to me. I am about 95% finished wirering it all up. As for boost controll I have the gm boost control solenoid hooked up. And I know this will allow the wastegate to go to it's max. But if I want lower boost controll, do I need some sort of controller.

Hey John,
I bought the Innovate LC-1 with XD-1 gauge from HPF and I was wondering how do I hook the LC-1 to the AEM???
There are 7 wires:
Red 12v supply--I have it going to the fuse box under the dash on drivers side
Blue Heater/Sensor Ground--Chassis ground or Should I hook it to the battery???
White System/Controller Ground--Either 65B or 72B on AEM??????
Green Analog Ground--65B or 72B?????
Yellow Analog Out 1--Not Used
Brown Analog Out 2--47B on AEM
Black Calibration Wire--Not Used

Let me know how it should be hooked up the right way. Also, how do I add the LC-1 to the O2 Sensor Wizard and setup the O2 Cal Table???? Thanks for any help you can give me.

I will take a look at it and post up this evening!

John thanks for the quick reply This whole aem is new to me. I am about 95% finished wirering it all up. As for boost controll I have the gm boost control solenoid hooked up. And I know this will allow the wastegate to go to it's max. But if I want lower boost controll, do I need some sort of controller.

You can use the AEM EMS and the GM solenoid to control the boost from as low as possible (wastegate spring) to however high you (or your system) want to go. It is all how you setup and tune the boost control in the software. You do not need any other controller.

I don't think my first post went through. But here it is again
Thanks for the fast reply John. I do have the gm boost control solenoid wirered in. But my question is how do I controll boost, with out installing a lap top and going into the aem. I know the gm one will allow the waste gate to go to its max. And my talon 44mm has a 1 bar spring witch will do like 22psi (I think)

I don't think my first post went through. But here it is again
Thanks for the fast reply John. I do have the gm boost control solenoid wirered in. But my question is how do I controll boost, with out installing a lap top and going into the aem. I know the gm one will allow the waste gate to go to its max. And my talon 44mm has a 1 bar spring witch will do like 22psi (I think)

Ah, ok, I understand. :)

You can set up a simple low/high boost setting with a toggle switch. This is also quite popular for owners wanting to switch between pump and race gas mapping without getting the laptop out. (Yes, I still have customers who don't even own a laptop!) You can also hook a rheostat up to the AEM, and program that to adjust your wastegate duty output, and therefore your boost pressure. This method does not allow you to take advantage of some of the other features of the AEM boost control, but will work as good as any basic boost controller.

Hope that helps!

Q: I changed my O2 sensor feedback from 14.7:1 to 16.5:1 for the cruizing light throttle loads -9 -7 -5. Now in doing so my error variable is a higher of course because this doesn't change the base map. I've been changing my base map in those fields. What's a good error percentage for O2 sensor feed back?

Hey John, did you find out how to hook up the LC-1 to the AEM yet???
Thanks. I posted this question on AEM Forums and I got one response telling me to use pin 47B which is the only thing I am certain about.

To make a long story short, I need to convert the cam/crank input drivers on a Supra EMS (1100) from Variable Reluctance (http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf) to Hall Effect. Basically, I'm converting a 2jz-ge distributor ignition to wasted spark, and I'm trying to dump the GE exhaust cam which drives the cam/crank sensors on the distributor.

I know the AEM supports Hall sensors because certain Honda models use them. Additionally, there are some threads on the AEM forum that suggest the conversion to Hall Effect can be accomplished using pull-resistors, but I need more information than that.

Any ideas?...

Thanks,
-scott

Seems like I am not the only one who need help with BC. I set the BC GM solenoid just like you showed on the first page. For some reason it's not working. In the fist test I check the VSS and set the BC setting to be at 14psi with fuel cute at 16. I am making the min boost allowed by the WG spring (10psi). Second test went to HI/LOW switch and set that at 14psi, nothing happend. I know I am on MAP and I should not suppose to use "BOOST from Load" option but just for testing I turned it on and the BC overshooted the boost and I hit the fuel cut. Seems like BC solenoid is connected properly but need help with the software. Here is my map.
http://members.cox.net/adilsaeed4/09_24_4.V1.11.cal

Can anyone answer my previous question????? Which pinouts on the AEM do I use to hook up the Innovate LC-1????? I know I have to use pin 47B for the AFR input but which ground on the AEM do I use????

Can anyone answer my previous question????? Which pinouts on the AEM do I use to hook up the Innovate LC-1????? I know I have to use pin 47B for the AFR input but which ground on the AEM do I use????

Sorry, I was out of town, and have been playing catchup today.

Brown will go to 47B, Lambda 1.

Blue wire should go to either a good chassis ground or battery negative.

White wire should go to 79B or 80B, or a good chassis ground.

Green analog ground may not be needed, but if it is needed I would hook it to a good chassis ground or to the same place as the white wire.


Your unit has a programmable 0-5V linear output. You need to program the output of the controller, then simply setup the O2#1 Sensor Cal table to match the 0-5V curve you programmed into the LC-1.

Hope that helps!

Thank you so much John!!! How do I setup the O2 Sensor Cal??? I have tried changing the current table(I had a Techedge W/B) to match the LC-1 but I can't get the numbers to match at all. Also, in the O2 wizard the LC-1 isn't listed so how do I add it to the list????

You cannot add the LC-1 to the wizard list. You will simply need to manually define the AFR vs. Voltage relationship in the AEM. This relationship is programmable on your LC-1 (AFAIK), so first you have to set up your Analog 2 output on the LC-1, then you can define that output in the AEM 02#1 Sensor Cal table.

Let me know if you need more detail.

I am having issues with my car idling when I drive the car for any considerable amount of time. I notice the AFR's bouncing all over the place when it is warmed up and idling at a stop light and then it dies out. It continually does this only when the car is hot. I am thinking that maybe the car is not tuned for higher intake temperatures but I am not sure. Also when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it (when I am working on the car) the car Idles at 2500 - 3000 rpm for a couple minutes and then settles into the normal idle. Is this normal? What do you think is the issue with the car dying out at lights and when I put the clutch in at low speeds (decelerating in nuetral when stopping?

Seems like I am not the only one who need help with BC. I set the BC GM solenoid just like you showed on the first page. For some reason it's not working. In the fist test I check the VSS and set the BC setting to be at 14psi with fuel cute at 16. I am making the min boost allowed by the WG spring (10psi). Second test went to HI/LOW switch and set that at 14psi, nothing happend. I know I am on MAP and I should not suppose to use "BOOST from Load" option but just for testing I turned it on and the BC overshooted the boost and I hit the fuel cut. Seems like BC solenoid is connected properly but need help with the software. Here is my map.
http://members.cox.net/adilsaeed4/09_24_4.V1.11.cal

Here is a brief paragraph posted by Jason on another forum, and it really is a good cliff notes version of how to set it up.

"The frequency should be 31hz. You should have your error table at +10% up to the site just before "0" then pull it out to -50% on the 2nd site after "0" with a linear line from "0" to -50% on the 2nd site. Turn Error control and P.I. control off, and make sure that your target comp gets you what you ask for. Also, put 50% in ALL of the sites under boost in the wg duty map. Your target comp will add or subtract from this to achieve your desired boost. I always start with -40% at whatever spring pressure nets you, then a ruff guess of what boost you expect from the turbo and put that at +50% and draw a line between the two in the target comp table......and your in!"

Hope that helps! I will try and take a look at your map sometime this week.

Q: I changed my O2 sensor feedback from 14.7:1 to 16.5:1 for the cruizing light throttle loads -9 -7 -5. Now in doing so my error variable is a higher of course because this doesn't change the base map. I've been changing my base map in those fields. What's a good error percentage for O2 sensor feed back?

I usually try and keep it within a +/- 5% range, and if it is getting past 10% you could use some fine tuning. Of course, there may be times when it is farther off (such as you have the O2 feedback turning on before the warmup enrichment is gone) but that is a pretty good rule of thumb I think.

I am having issues with my car idling when I drive the car for any considerable amount of time. I notice the AFR's bouncing all over the place when it is warmed up and idling at a stop light and then it dies out. It continually does this only when the car is hot. I am thinking that maybe the car is not tuned for higher intake temperatures but I am not sure. Also when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it (when I am working on the car) the car Idles at 2500 - 3000 rpm for a couple minutes and then settles into the normal idle. Is this normal? What do you think is the issue with the car dying out at lights and when I put the clutch in at low speeds (decelerating in nuetral when stopping?


Sounds like you just need some idle control and possibly fuel/timing tuning in the idle areas. Feel free to send me your map, and I can take a look at it.

When you reconnect the battery, the AEM does not know the exact location of the idle motor pintle. Simply turning the car back off allows the AEM to "park" the idle motor properly, and it will be good to go when you fire it up again.

To make a long story short, I need to convert the cam/crank input drivers on a Supra EMS (1100) from Variable Reluctance (http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf) to Hall Effect. Basically, I'm converting a 2jz-ge distributor ignition to wasted spark, and I'm trying to dump the GE exhaust cam which drives the cam/crank sensors on the distributor.

I know the AEM supports Hall sensors because certain Honda models use them. Additionally, there are some threads on the AEM forum that suggest the conversion to Hall Effect can be accomplished using pull-resistors, but I need more information than that.

Any ideas?...

Thanks,
-scott

Some of the AEM boxes can be converted from mag to hall effect by switching jumpers on the board, but to the best of my knowledge the Supra box is not one of them.

I believe it is possible to convert the Supra box, but I do not have that information in front of me. Perhaps AEM tech support could guide you in the right direction to modify your EMS, or search the AEM forum in case someone has already done it.

Sounds like you just need some idle control and possibly fuel/timing tuning in the idle areas. Feel free to send me your map, and I can take a look at it.

When you reconnect the battery, the AEM does not know the exact location of the idle motor pintle. Simply turning the car back off allows the AEM to "park" the idle motor properly, and it will be good to go when you fire it up again.


Thanks, What email address can I send it to. You can PM me if you do not want it public, or send it to my email address at ryanrayburn2001@yahoo.com

Thanks, What email address can I send it to. You can PM me if you do not want it public, or send it to my email address at ryanrayburn2001@yahoo.com

Email is: jreedracing@hotmail.com

You should have your error table at +10% up to the site just before "0" then pull it out to -50% on the 2nd site after "0" with a linear line from "0" to -50% on the 2nd site. Turn Error control and P.I. control off, and make sure that your target comp gets you what you ask for.

What will be the purpose of setting the Error comp tabe when it will be off. Also I cannot adjust the x-axis of the Error comp table, it is at 18psi right now, like to take to to 30.
thanx

What will be the purpose of setting the Error comp tabe when it will be off. Also I cannot adjust the x-axis of the Error comp table, it is at 18psi right now, like to take to to 30.
thanx

The instructions are my recommended way of tuning boost control, in a cliff notes version written by Jason. There are many, many other ways of setting up the boost control, but it would be outside the scope of this thread to try and teach them all.

You cannot adjust the x-axis of the Error Comp Table. It will change depending on MAP sensor range. I have never had a need to adjust this x-axis, and I use the AEM boost control as described in that paragraph daily. It just simply works that good! :)

Question:

I have the AEM EMS without a CDI or DLI.
What do I need to tell my tuner to do to get the stock tacho meter to work?
It hasnīt worked since they put in the AEM EMS.
Other than that the car runs great

Thanks

Question:

I have the AEM EMS without a CDI or DLI.
What do I need to tell my tuner to do to get the stock tacho meter to work?
It hasnīt worked since they put in the AEM EMS.
Other than that the car runs great

Thanks

Check the status of output LS#7, and turn it off if it isn't. Other than that, check the wiring at pin 16A (black/white) and verify that it hasn't been damaged in any way (from previous piggy back systems/etc). If none of that fixes the tach, de-pin 16A from the ECU connector and see if that does the trick. If it does, we may have to look to the hardware. I have actually never had this problem before.

Thank you very much John. Will check this

John did you have a chance to look at my map yet? THanks for your help in advance.

I recieved your email with the setup specs, but it did not include the calibration file. I sent an email inquiring about it, but I guess that did not get through. When you get a chance, try sending the calibration file again and I will take a look at it!

AEM tuners, I need your help.

My AEM C2DI 4 channel ignition died this past summer. AEM has been giving me the run around w/ regards to completion. What are my options as far as ignition boxes..

HKS DLI is all that I know of right now. Can anyone suggest something else? If so, how hard is the install? HKS DLI being easy at 1 and AEM ignition being a 10...

I want to crank up the boost and this is the only thing holding me back. thanks for your response.

AEM tuners, I need your help.

My AEM C2DI 4 channel ignition died this past summer. AEM has been giving me the run around w/ regards to completion. What are my options as far as ignition boxes..

HKS DLI is all that I know of right now. Can anyone suggest something else? If so, how hard is the install? HKS DLI being easy at 1 and AEM ignition being a 10...

I want to crank up the boost and this is the only thing holding me back. thanks for your response.

Get an HKS DLI. Installation is incredibly simple. Maybe a 2-3 just because you should solder the wires in.

Chris.

AEM tuners, I need your help.

My AEM C2DI 4 channel ignition died this past summer. AEM has been giving me the run around w/ regards to completion. What are my options as far as ignition boxes..

HKS DLI is all that I know of right now. Can anyone suggest something else? If so, how hard is the install? HKS DLI being easy at 1 and AEM ignition being a 10...

I want to crank up the boost and this is the only thing holding me back. thanks for your response.

One other option is the MSD DIS4, which will plug into the same harness you wired up for the AEM CDI.

Having said that, on a Supra I echo Chris's recommendation with the HKS DLI. They work, and work well and I have never had any sort of failure with one.

One other option is the MSD DIS4, which will plug into the same harness you wired up for the AEM CDI.

Having said that, on a Supra I echo Chris's recommendation with the HKS DLI. They work, and work well and I have never had any sort of failure with one.

How is the MSD DIS4 in comparison to the HKS DLI? I guess I should note that I just want something reliable with the ability to boost 30-33psi...

I had the HKS at one point but sold it for the AEM CDI.. the cdi had superior sparking technology but failed in the reliability department.

Chris and John, thank you for your time.

How is the MSD DIS4 in comparison to the HKS DLI? I guess I should note that I just want something reliable with the ability to boost 30-33psi...

I had the HKS at one point but sold it for the AEM CDI.. the cdi had superior sparking technology but failed in the reliability department.

Chris and John, thank you for your time.

The bugs with the CDI are nearly all worked out if not already completely worked out. There were a series of hard to diagnose issues that caused a certain percentage of them to fail during wierd, unique and hard to isolate circumstances. I believe these have nearly all been eliminated.

Chris.

Sent it you you again last night, thanks for your help!



I recieved your email with the setup specs, but it did not include the calibration file. I sent an email inquiring about it, but I guess that did not get through. When you get a chance, try sending the calibration file again and I will take a look at it!

The bugs with the CDI are nearly all worked out if not already completely worked out. There were a series of hard to diagnose issues that caused a certain percentage of them to fail during wierd, unique and hard to isolate circumstances. I believe these have nearly all been eliminated.

Chris.

Chris, I'm a little confused.. is your post in regards to the msd dsi 4 or the AEM CDI? I.E. are you saying that AEM has almost come to a finalized revision? :aiwebs_01

Could this be true? :D

Chris, I'm a little confused.. is your post in regards to the msd dsi 4 or the AEM CDI? I.E. are you saying that AEM has almost come to a finalized revision? :aiwebs_01

Could this be true? :D

I believe so. Maybe Jason can chime in here.

Chris.

I believe so. Maybe Jason can chime in here.

Chris.

AEM has a completely re-designed CDI, it is complete, but we are going through some incredibly thorough and harsh testing. Obviously AEM does NOT want to have any further problems. I wouls expect something in the next month or so, depending on how thins test out.

AEM has a completely re-designed CDI, it is complete, but we are going through some incredibly thorough and harsh testing. Obviously AEM does NOT want to have any further problems. I wouls expect something in the next month or so, depending on how thins test out.

Jason, I appreciate the insider update. A month or so and my car will be hibernating for winter...

John, are you sure I can just plug and play the MSD DIS 4 into my current aem harness? Just hook power/ground up and thats it? :snork_lac

I think I'll be putting up my aem 4 channel box up forsale!! :evil:

hey jason this is david i sent you a post on aem forum but havent heard from you so i will post here. I have a couple of problems, 1 does anyone here use stock boost control for boosting stock twins with aem. 2 do you have to wire the gm boost selinoid to the aem or can you use the stock selinoid wires to hook it up cause i had it hooked up that way and it would keep going on off on off all the time you could here it . 3 what is the crank injector time table mine is set to 60 and all the maps i see exept the workmap are all set to 170 or so? what is this function is it for starting your car so you get more fuel in? Im just tring to look for things that can keep me from boosting past 15 pounds. I put the aem on and without a tune and a manual boost controler set to 18 or so i went to 20 psi, then i get it tuned and put a gm boost selinoid on and i cant get past 15 psi. Any help with stuff I should look for would be apprieciated thanks. david, o and my map looks almost exactly like the workmap exept for the a/f . I had it tuned and it kept brakeing up at 5000 rpms so i put new plugs in and it just wont boost past 15 psi i dont understand it im useing 110 and 92 mix .So if there is any help out there. Sorry for long post thanks.

hey jason this is david i sent you a post on aem forum but havent heard from you so i will post here i have a couple of problems first does anyone here use stock boost control for boosting stock twins with aem second do you have to wire the gm boost selinoid to the aem or can you use the stock selinoid wires to hook it up cause i had it hooked up that way and it would keep going on off on off all the time you could here it . third what is the crank injector time table mine is set to 60 and all the maps i see on here exept the workmap are all set to 170 or so what is this function is it for starting your car so you get more fuel in im just tring to look for things that can keep me from boosting past 15 pounds i put the aem on and without a tune and a manual boost controler set to 18 or so i went to 20 then i get it tuned and put a gm boost selinoid on and i cant get past 15 any help with stuff i should look for would be apprieciated thanks david o and my map looks almost exactly like the workmap exept for the a/f i had it tuned and it kept brakeing up at 5000 rpms so i put new plugs in and it just wont boost past 15 psi i dont understand it im useing 110 and 92 mix so any help out there sorry for long post thanks

David. You wrote the biggest sentence in the history of the world. It is almost impossible to read I suggest you post your questions separately with a # in front of them.

Make sure your GM solenoid is hooked up properly. Here's a diagram that one of my customers made.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/images/products/GM_ELEC_BOOS_INST.jpg

Chris.

If you have stock twins and a downpipe with a full exhaust, you won't be able to control ultimate boost, just slow down the ramp. The stock turbos are too restrictive once a full exhaust is on the car it will creep.

As for cranking fuel...it just depends on what your car wants if it isn't broke...don't fix it.

It doesn't creep, it goes to 15psi and just stays there it wont go down or up, unless your saying im loseing 3psi when im boosting. When i had the stock ecu it would spool to 18psi in a snap but now with the aem it wont. If its not the aem then it is the gm boost controler . The only reason i think its aem cause the guy who did my tune did another supra here and when he had stock twins he couldn't boost past 15psi either.

hey chris i didnt have the gm booost selinoid set up that way. I had it like the avcr diagram in mkiv so i ran the vac hose like the diagram, but when i hook the wires up it starts sounding like an air compressor it keeps turning on and off real fast i never notice it before the other day. Does this mean its bad or not? when i hook the pos wire up to it then ground the other it doesnt do that. Is that weird or what. I do have a ground problem with the a/c compressor do you think that could be part of the problem? sorry for my rambling. david

Just found this new forum. Very cool!

I have a BPU Supra and have the race logic traction control ready to install. I have the AEM in my car and wanted to know if the pins used on the AEM differ from the stock ECU, and if they do (which I'm pretty sure they do), which ones should I use. And, does someone have a diagram they could provide showing this?

Thanks :eusa_ange

hey chris i didnt have the gm booost selinoid set up that way. I had it like the avcr diagram in mkiv so i ran the vac hose like the diagram, but when i hook the wires up it starts sounding like an air compressor it keeps turning on and off real fast i never notice it before the other day. Does this mean its bad or not? when i hook the pos wire up to it then ground the other it doesnt do that. Is that weird or what. I do have a ground problem with the a/c compressor do you think that could be part of the problem? sorry for my rambling. david

The buzzing is the relay working in the solenoid. That operates at the frequency you set it at. You'll need to look at your boost controller settings. I typically leave it off until I get into boost, that way it isn't on all the time.

Chris.

hey chris B thanks I didn't have that set up so i did it yesterday and it works properly now. I thought that when the guy tuned it he would set it all up for me cause i told him what i put on and soforth and i guess he didn't. Anyways i came to a conclusion i haven't tryed it yet but do you think my autometer machanical boost guage is off and not the aem cause when i but the aem in i went out in my supra and it boosted all the way to 20 on the boost guage and i had a xs manual boost controler at that time thats without the aem being tuned yet, but with stock ecu and the mbc in the autometer guage would only show 18psi . Im going to try and set up the boost to about 20 psi and see if it goes all the way past 15 or not . i guess i will will see later today thanks david OK well i forgot i only have the stock mapsensor so i cant go past 18 so im screwed there . One last ? i have a 5 bar map ready to hook up do i have to have it tuned again with the 5bar in thanks chris b and any one else that whats to chime in .

hey chris B thanks I didn't have that set up so i did it yesterday and it works properly now. I thought that when the guy tuned it he would set it all up for me cause i told him what i put on and soforth and i guess he didn't. Anyways i came to a conclusion i haven't tryed it yet but do you think my autometer machanical boost guage is off and not the aem cause when i but the aem in i went out in my supra and it boosted all the way to 20 on the boost guage and i had a xs manual boost controler at that time thats without the aem being tuned yet, but with stock ecu and the mbc in the autometer guage would only show 18psi . Im going to try and set up the boost to about 20 psi and see if it goes all the way past 15 or not . i guess i will will see later today thanks david OK well i forgot i only have the stock mapsensor so i cant go past 18 so im screwed there . One last ? i have a 5 bar map ready to hook up do i have to have it tuned again with the 5bar in thanks chris b and any one else that whats to chime in .

Boost gauges are notorously off. Nearly all of them are. They're usually off around 2 psi.

Take care,
Chris.

Are the HS outputs used as a triggered ground source? I'm in the process of staging my secondary pump. I want to be sure I'm setting up my relay properly.

If it matters I'm using the HS1 out put b/c my car is a stick. Thanks.

Are the HS outputs used as a triggered ground source? I'm in the process of staging my secondary pump. I want to be sure I'm setting up my relay properly.

If it matters I'm using the HS1 out put b/c my car is a stick. Thanks.

I believe HS outputs need to be connected to the device then to ground. LS outputs need to be connected to the device then to the power source.

Anybody want to chime in and verify.

Chris.

I believe HS outputs need to be connected to the device then to ground. LS outputs need to be connected to the device then to the power source.

Anybody want to chime in and verify.

Chris.

I'm confused here.

Are you saying the HS outputs are triggered as a ground? So hook my relay up and us the aem as the ground source? :confused:

I'm confused here.

Are you saying the HS outputs are triggered as a ground? So hook my relay up and us the aem as the ground source? :confused:

I believe HS outputs when on are +12V. Therefore you need to connect them through a device such as an LED where the other end of the LED is grounded.

You can also use it to trigger a relay for a fuel pump.

Chris.

I believe HS outputs when on are +12V. Therefore you need to connect them through a device such as an LED where the other end of the LED is grounded.

You can also use it to trigger a relay for a fuel pump.

Chris.

Thank you. That's what I assumed however, I wanted to be sure. I'm using the HS to trigger my relay for my second fuel pump.

Ah, ok, I understand. :)

You can set up a simple low/high boost setting with a toggle switch. This is also quite popular for owners wanting to switch between pump and race gas mapping without getting the laptop out. (Yes, I still have customers who don't even own a laptop!) You can also hook a rheostat up to the AEM, and program that to adjust your wastegate duty output, and therefore your boost pressure. This method does not allow you to take advantage of some of the other features of the AEM boost control, but will work as good as any basic boost controller.

Hope that helps!


Anychance we can get some more information about setting up a rheostat type boost control? I've already got the VSS vs boost and a hi/low working very well, but this sounds interesting.

Thinking about it, it sure would be nice if in the TPSvsRPM target method the TPS axis was selectable for other analog input.

i never got an anwser to my ? do i need to retune my car if i hook up a 5bar map sensor ? thanks david

i never got an anwser to my ? do i need to retune my car if i hook up a 5bar map sensor ? thanks david

Not if it is calibrated perfectly. I would just verify this with your wide-band gauge.

Chris.

I just installed my o2 sensor in my down pipe. And the aem directions said to install it pretty far away from the turbo outlet, I think it was like 30 inches. But I see alot of guys install it much close to the turbo outlet like 6 to 8 inches away. I would think the closer the better. Any help would be great.

Most guys mount it closer, which works fine, but will shorten the sensor life.

IIRC, ideal o2 sensor placment is supposed to be 18" from the head, but i could be wrong. depends on what the EGT's are at said point in the exhaust system... either way, it shouldnt be too bad because i beleive ALL o2 sensors have integrated heat circuits, besides one-wire units like my RX7. so if you place it a little bit further away than normal/stock, itll be ok. but if you place it CLOSER, it could get hotter than it should and shorten the life of the sensor lke jefe said.

is there an easy way to calibrate the startup table and targe idle maps? i may just have to wait till i have the car in front of me before i can wrap my brain around the tables.

Can someone check my logic please.

New box (1100 running 1.11)

I start with "1100 gm 3bar.V1.11.cal" in the Toyota startup calibration.

1.) I change the map sensor to AEM 5 bar using the wizard
2.) Change the injectors/presure from the fuel table:
Old injectors (stock) rated: 550cc/min @ 43PSI
New injectors rated: 96lbs/hr @ 43PSI

Loaded it into the car and "Set Throttle Range"

The car ran very smooth for about 10 seconds then died as the Idle started to go down from cold start, then it wouldn't start at all. Fresh plugs were in the car and it did have a 5 second VERY RICH before we started with this map. I've attached a copy without the TPS set incase any of you can help me.

You'll have to change the file extension from .txt to .cal since the forum won't allow .cal uploads.

Help please, friends car needs to be done yesterday :) Thanks for the help the other night Daniel, that was very nice of you to drive all the way up here to help :)

Frankie,
I've sent him a new file to try. I figured out what was wrong... The fuel map gets stretched to the new map sensor, so I put changed a diff map and posted it in SF. I also tolk him to call me and I'll walk him through it.

Let me know,

ok cool :)

2 step settings. I hear people claiming 20psi+ on the two step alone. My car at 6500 will only make about 7psi.

Could you share some magic two step settings? I'd like to stay away from anti-lag if possible. Thanks.

do you have the soft-touch or "hard" option set on your ems? there are different rpms that you could set up for cutting fuel and spark. the AEM instructions say that ideal settings are to keep the fuel and spark cut withing 200rpm of eachother. im not sure what changes between the "Hard" and "Soft". id have to take a look at the software again. maybe, if you only cut ignition and left the fuel go, youll have a mild anti-lag setup. that way, youll have raw fuel entering your exhaust, and when the next go around of alternating spark signals are sent, itll ignite the raw fuel in your exhaust and give you that extra burst of heat that you want to get more shaft rpm's out of your turbine.

2 step settings. I hear people claiming 20psi+ on the two step alone. My car at 6500 will only make about 7psi.

Could you share some magic two step settings? I'd like to stay away from anti-lag if possible. Thanks.

Depending on your turbo size, this may be all you will get using a simple ignition cut based 2step. It is when you start to employ some retard with the igniton cut that you really build boost fast. The retard is part of the 2step settings, and you can really fine tune it for the desired amount of boost you want at the line. It works great, and you don't have to go crazy with it. But if you want, 30+ psi at the line is quite easy to get, and fast! :D

There are a couple other methods of "anti-lag" that you can use with the AEM, but the above covers 99% of what most people want that I tune for.

It is when you start to employ some retard with the igniton cut that you really build boost fast. The retard is part of the 2step settings, and you can really fine tune it for the desired amount of boost you want at the line.

Could you be more specific? Should I post up my current settings? I'm just looking for a mere 12-15 psi at the line.

Thanks in advance! :)

I'm having alot of bad luck getting my supra started with my aem. I am looking for a tuner in the New Jersey area. Any help woud be great.

hey lark did you just put it in if you did i had the same problem i tried everything and nothing worked so i was going to take it out and i unpluged it and pluged it back in and it started the first turn over i was so pissed and happy at the same time for wasteing like 3 days. hope this works for you .

Could you be more specific? Should I post up my current settings? I'm just looking for a mere 12-15 psi at the line.

Thanks in advance! :)


Post them up, lets take a look!

I'm having alot of bad luck getting my supra started with my aem. I am looking for a tuner in the New Jersey area. Any help woud be great.


Got your email, I will get back to you later today when I am back on my laptop.

After doing some tuning with the AEM. It seemed that the computer was doing it's job. So I went to the basics. After checking compression I found it low on cyl 1 & 2 & 3 and ok on the rest. So I did a leak down test. It was loosing air through the intake, witch indicates a intake valve problem. So my next test was to remove the cams and perform the leak down again. This time the cylinder held the pressure. Come to find out the head guy installed to thick of a shim witch left the intake valve slightly open. So after I fix that, I will continue AEM tuning

thats bull crap... id be pissed... you should back charge them for labor and parts necessary to fix the problem they created.

Post them up, lets take a look!

Here are my current settings:

2Step fuel cut: 6000rpms
2Step Ignition cut: 5600rpms
2Step ok below VSS: 3 mph
2Step retard Rev: 5800rpms

Okay, so with these setting I can build around 7-8psi w/ my 76mm turbo. I'd like to be able to build 10psi @ 5000rpms if that's possible.

:confused:

Here are my current settings:

2Step fuel cut: 6000rpms
2Step Ignition cut: 5600rpms
2Step ok below VSS: 3 mph
2Step retard Rev: 5800rpms

Okay, so with these setting I can build around 7-8psi w/ my 76mm turbo. I'd like to be able to build 10psi @ 5000rpms if that's possible.

:confused:

John Reed, please give me some suggestions on how to make my settings more effecient. Thanks! :help:

^^ John Reed, where did you go bud? :(

After doing some tuning with the AEM. It seemed that the computer was doing it's job. So I went to the basics. After checking compression I found it low on cyl 1 & 2 & 3 and ok on the rest. So I did a leak down test. It was loosing air through the intake, witch indicates a intake valve problem. So my next test was to remove the cams and perform the leak down again. This time the cylinder held the pressure. Come to find out the head guy installed to thick of a shim witch left the intake valve slightly open. So after I fix that, I will continue AEM tuning

Argh. That's why I do the work myself. I just don't trust anyone anymore. You can also get a bent valve from that, so I hope everything is ok. As I recall, exhaust valves are .006 to .010 and intakes are .010 to .014. Please someone correct me if those are backwards.

Take care,
Chris.

Here are my current settings:

2Step fuel cut: 6000rpms
2Step Ignition cut: 5600rpms
2Step ok below VSS: 3 mph
2Step retard Rev: 5800rpms

Okay, so with these setting I can build around 7-8psi w/ my 76mm turbo. I'd like to be able to build 10psi @ 5000rpms if that's possible.

:confused:

I run the fuel cut and ignition cut at the same rpm. I suppose the gap may get extra fuel out into the turbo and build a bit more boost. However, you should easily be able to get 7-8 psi. Or you could do a NOS setup like I do, and just spray. :)

Chris.

I run the fuel cut and ignition cut at the same rpm. I suppose the gap may get extra fuel out into the turbo and build a bit more boost. However, you should easily be able to get 7-8 psi. Or you could do a NOS setup like I do, and just spray. :)

Chris.

Chris, you're dead on. My car makes a good .5bar of boost aka 7.2 psi with those settings. I thought people could build 24-30psi with "magical" settings.

Chris, you're dead on. My car makes a good .5bar of boost aka 7.2 psi with those settings. I thought people could build 24-30psi with "magical" settings.

I can build 40psi of boost at the line but I have an auto with a trans-brake. It will stall to 7500rpm if I want and launch at 40psi. Of course that will obliterate the tires. Typically I can launch at 12psi before the tires break free.

Chris.

Alright you AEM gurus. My car will be finished this weekend and I am hoping someone can shoot me a base map that will at least get me started and be able to get me to DynoExtreme to finalize the tune. Here are my mods below:

Fuel:
720cc injectors
twin walbro

Engine:
Ported & Polished head with HKS 272's
Pauter Rods with JE pistons .020 over
Greddy T88

If I had left anything out, please let me know. You can email me the base map at rosaljr@gmail.com. The help from you guys will be greatly appreciated. My car has been down for 6 months now and I am looking forward to starting her up this weekend.

Thanks,
Robert

This base maps are pretty damn good that come on the CD's these days. You'll also need to mention if you have a 6 speed or auto and if auto, what type if you want one from someone else.

I'd give you my maps but there highly customized for a lot of other stuff (e.g. nitrous, high stall TH400, etc).

Chris.

This base maps are pretty damn good that come on the CD's these days. You'll also need to mention if you have a 6 speed or auto and if auto, what type if you want one from someone else.

I'd give you my maps but there highly customized for a lot of other stuff (e.g. nitrous, high stall TH400, etc).

Chris.

Hi Chris,

I have a six speed. Since I am new to the AEM, I just wanted to make sure I would be able to drive the car for 2 hours to get to DynoExtreme to finalize the tune. But if you say that the base maps are more than capable, then I will go with that and give it a try.

Thanks!

Hi Chris,

I have a six speed. Since I am new to the AEM, I just wanted to make sure I would be able to drive the car for 2 hours to get to DynoExtreme to finalize the tune. But if you say that the base maps are more than capable, then I will go with that and give it a try.

Thanks!

Dyno extreme is close to me. If you want to arrange it, I can tune it for you. Just PM me and we'll talk about it!

Jason.

Thanks Jason. Getting your car tuned by an AEM engineer is a good thing. :)

Anytime Chris! How is life being a new Daddy?:)

Good! Its interesting how life begins. Discovering those dangling things in front of you that keep bumping you and other things are actually your own hands. Discovering how to make both eyes look the same direction. Discovering that if you cry for long enough, those wierd bigger things moving around will eventually figure out what's wrong with you and fix it. :)

Good! Its interesting how life begins. Discovering those dangling things in front of you that keep bumping you and other things are actually your own hands. Discovering how to make both eyes look the same direction. Discovering that if you cry for long enough, those wierd bigger things moving around will eventually figure out what's wrong with you and fix it. :)

It is truly amazing how quickly they learn things!:) Congrats again...it just keeps getting better and better, I guess until they are 13!

Jason.

Looking for some base anti-lag setting for my 76mm turbo set-up. My current map doesn't have any provisions for this at this time. I have the 2-step dialed in now I need to add anti-lag. Please help :)

My first question is knock volts... I have 1.6v on #1 and 2.3v on #2 @7k I have only 13 degrees and 15.5 lbs of boost(93octane) in it so I don't think it's pinging. I looked at the knock set up in my cal and it's "allows" for much more noise at that rpm. Can one use the set up values as the gospel in a healthy engine?
Second one, since crank to run time is almost never the same how can I get my car to start up and take throttle well? Sometimes it is alright and others it's just no good.
#3 Is there a general rule of thumb for how much value a tenth of fuel # is worth in terms of end result AFR?
And the last one.... Looking at the map that comes as the stock cal for the Supra the fuel map has a pretty large hump in the area just above idle. I understand this was done so it would take throttle well. I just would like to know if it's reasonable to get acceleration fuel to do it's job well. I don't think my 3.0 liter engine needs all that much to take throttle well. I have issues after start mainly but that goes back to ?#2.
I would like to see the accel fuel for a bigger engine and a positive displacement blower, just to get a idea of how aggressive one would have to be.

My first question is knock volts... I have 1.6v on #1 and 2.3v on #2 @7k I have only 13 degrees and 15.5 lbs of boost(93octane) in it so I don't think it's pinging. I looked at the knock set up in my cal and it's "allows" for much more noise at that rpm. Can one use the set up values as the gospel in a healthy engine?
Second one, since crank to run time is almost never the same how can I get my car to start up and take throttle well? Sometimes it is alright and others it's just no good.
#3 Is there a general rule of thumb for how much value a tenth of fuel # is worth in terms of end result AFR?
And the last one.... Looking at the map that comes as the stock cal for the Supra the fuel map has a pretty large hump in the area just above idle. I understand this was done so it would take throttle well. I just would like to know if it's reasonable to get acceleration fuel to do it's job well. I don't think my 3.0 liter engine needs all that much to take throttle well. I have issues after start mainly but that goes back to ?#2.
I would like to see the accel fuel for a bigger engine and a positive displacement blower, just to get a idea of how aggressive one would have to be.

In answer to question#1, the best way to tune for knock is to put some good race fuel in there, then do a full pull with a safe timing. Then look at the knock raw table as your rpm increases and set your knock noise table slightly above this. In most Supras you'll see upwards of 4.0Volts at high rpms.

The driveability questions should be answered by the experts. Anyone?

Chris.

Looking for some base anti-lag setting for my 76mm turbo set-up. My current map doesn't have any provisions for this at this time. I have the 2-step dialed in now I need to add anti-lag. Please help :)


Please answer my question. I'l like to get some basic settings :eusa_snoo

My first question is knock volts... I have 1.6v on #1 and 2.3v on #2 @7k I have only 13 degrees and 15.5 lbs of boost(93octane) in it so I don't think it's pinging. I looked at the knock set up in my cal and it's "allows" for much more noise at that rpm. Can one use the set up values as the gospel in a healthy engine?
Second one, since crank to run time is almost never the same how can I get my car to start up and take throttle well? Sometimes it is alright and others it's just no good.
#3 Is there a general rule of thumb for how much value a tenth of fuel # is worth in terms of end result AFR?
And the last one.... Looking at the map that comes as the stock cal for the Supra the fuel map has a pretty large hump in the area just above idle. I understand this was done so it would take throttle well. I just would like to know if it's reasonable to get acceleration fuel to do it's job well. I don't think my 3.0 liter engine needs all that much to take throttle well. I have issues after start mainly but that goes back to ?#2.
I would like to see the accel fuel for a bigger engine and a positive displacement blower, just to get a idea of how aggressive one would have to be.

Jay, I am coming down to Tampa for the NMRA race....are you going? We should have plenty of time to look at it this time around.....fuel problems fixed?

Please answer my question. I'l like to get some basic settings :eusa_snoo

This is kind of a loaded question.... basic settings are going to be dependent upon what your launch rpm is. If you go into the drag race antilag activate it to a fixed retard number of say -12, and have it activate just below (like 200rpm) your launching number, and work off of the same switch you are using for your 2 step. Your should be pretty close. You can also setup a limit for boost allowed on the anti-lag by setting up an upper load limit.

Jay, I am coming down to Tampa for the NMRA race....are you going? We should have plenty of time to look at it this time around.....fuel problems fixed?
I will be there but not with the Toyo.. Anyhow you outta know better, it would be another 3am deal! Yes the fuel issues are fixed. I would have to say that it was f-ed what I bought it. It explans why your base cal was so far out. See ya in a few
Jay

I have an AEM and it runs great but other than the fact that it stalls at idle whenever I run the car hard. Any of you guys know where to look in the AEM so I can adjust that parameter that is giving me this problem? It's really starting to be a nuisance. I was up canyon carving at Angeles Crest and whenever we came to a stop, the car would just die (pretty dangerous up there when it happened). Starts right back up, but then dies again. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

look around for the "hi-idle wait" table. there is a window you can pull up where you can enter road speed for the high idle to engage OVER, and how long to keep it at that high idle AFTER you drop below that road speed, measured in seconds.

so you can say, 1200rpm for 1.5 seconds UNDER 5mph... thats, if i recall the format of that table correctly. check in the help section, youll see what i mean. its pretty self explanitory once you have it pulled up.

look around for the "hi-idle wait" table. there is a window you can pull up where you can enter road speed for the high idle to engage OVER, and how long to keep it at that high idle AFTER you drop below that road speed, measured in seconds.

so you can say, 1200rpm for 1.5 seconds UNDER 5mph... thats, if i recall the format of that table correctly. check in the help section, youll see what i mean. its pretty self explanitory once you have it pulled up.

Thanks,

I'll go ahead and change that setting tonight. Can't test it though, because it's raining here in good ole sunny Southern California!

Hi All,

Can anyone help, we have run up a number of maps and the car idles way to rich so could a person on here run up a good base start map for the spec outlined below.
Thanking all of you in advance.


Cams: Stock
Intake Manifold: Vielside with 90mm TB
Turbocharger: Greddy T88 T034D
Fuel system : Delphi 1000cc, FSE tripple 255s, 52psi, 1/2 inch Stainless fuel lines.
Ignition System: Stock with HKS DLi
Spark plugs: IK24s
Octane fuel : Cool Blue 110 octane
Exhaust system: 4 inch straight through
Any modifications to the head: NO
Any compression ratio changes:NO
O2 sensor : FJO Wideband
Adjustable cam gear settings: Stock

We are running AEM firmware V1.19.

Thanks in advance.

Greg.

Good! Its interesting how life begins. Discovering those dangling things in front of you that keep bumping you and other things are actually your own hands. Discovering how to make both eyes look the same direction. Discovering that if you cry for long enough, those wierd bigger things moving around will eventually figure out what's wrong with you and fix it. :)

That's all well and good about you, but what about the new baby?? :eusa_ange

I just finished rebuiolding my engine, and need a map so I can do the braking and be able to take it to illinois to Sound performance to tune it and dyno.
my set up is:
Turbo SP63 A/R .81
HKS 272 CAMS
Head is Mildly port and polished
Valve train is by FERREA 1mm oversize SST valve, double spring, titanium retainer
engine is bored .20 over with J&E forge piston and Eagle H beam
HKS Super Dragger 3.5 Exaust system
Titanmotorsport fuel upgrade with 255 Dual walbro internal fuel pump
865cc injectors
HKS DLI
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Findanza Lightweight flywheel
Electric dua fan Flex-a-lite
Fluidyne Radiator
Stock Manifold Intake
FJO Wideband
AEM-EMS
Manual Transmission 6 speed

I will appreciate the help and thank you in advance, I hope some body can get me a decent map that i can use. i recently upgraded to 1.19 version on my AEM-EMS.

:eusa_danc Thanks again :eusa_danc

I just finished rebuiolding my engine, and need a map so I can do the braking and be able to take it to illinois to Sound performance to tune it and dyno.
my set up is:
Turbo SP63 A/R .81
HKS 272 CAMS
Head is Mildly port and polished
Valve train is by FERREA 1mm oversize SST valve, double spring, titanium retainer
engine is bored .20 over with J&E forge piston and Eagle H beam
HKS Super Dragger 3.5 Exaust system
Titanmotorsport fuel upgrade with 255 Dual walbro internal fuel pump
865cc injectors
HKS DLI
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Findanza Lightweight flywheel
Electric dua fan Flex-a-lite
Fluidyne Radiator
Stock Manifold Intake
FJO Wideband
AEM-EMS
Manual Transmission 6 speed

I will appreciate the help and thank you in advance, I hope some body can get me a decent map that i can use. i recently upgraded to 1.19 version on my AEM-EMS.

:eusa_danc Thanks again :eusa_danc

I have maps for an auto. If the map you are using is running way to rich, make sure that your static fuel pressure is at around 40psi. Also check your MAP sensor to make sure the AEM is thinking it's the same MAP pressure. If that is different, you will have problems. If both of those are correct, then take the fuel map and highlight the whole thing, right click on it and choose percent. Then type in 95, and do this until is idles better. You will probably need to retune some areas of the map, but I'm guessing it's one of the first two problems.

Take care,
Chris.

Than you Chris, I'll try that. Right now I can get it started and my IDLE is at 1200, but when I applied the gas it just shut off. But if I apply the gas slowly it will rev fine but if I let the gas go it the engine turn off.

how can i change the injectors, i know where to go, but wher e should i put it to. PSI, LB/FT2, or PKA tha't the left side of the little table where you change the injectors what would it be? I have 865cc injectors but I don't know the other part of the table. I don't know if I'm explaining myself right, I hope you understand what i'm trying to say.

Maiquen

Than you Chris, I'll try that. Right now I can get it started and my IDLE is at 1200, but when I applied the gas it just shut off. But if I apply the gas slowly it will rev fine but if I let the gas go it the engine turn off.

how can i change the injectors, i know where to go, but wher e should i put it to. PSI, LB/FT2, or PKA tha't the left side of the little table where you change the injectors what would it be? I have 865cc injectors but I don't know the other part of the table. I don't know if I'm explaining myself right, I hope you understand what i'm trying to say.

Maiquen

Is O2 feedback turned on? What A:F are you seeing at idle once the coolant temp is up to around 180 degrees? Turn O2 feedback off and if your A:F is way rich or way lean, then you'll need to take the entire fuel map and multiply it by a percentage to get it close. Idle A:F should be roughly 14:1. That is done by highlighting all the cells in the fuel table, right clicking and choosing percent change. Do this until your idle is about right. This is all based on whether or not the A:F was set in the map you got to be at 14:1. It's a guess, you can start from there. Then turn up the boost slowly and make sure that when your car gets into boost that the A:F drops to between 11:1 and 11.5:1. If not, you'll need to start modifying values in the fuel map. There's a lot to learn, way more than I could explain. The best option would be to get a tuner to fly out there and get it right. Then you can do the minor tweaking yourself.

Chris.

I'll check that today as soon I get off from work, I will let you know how it went.

Thanks,

Maiquen

What Temp-Sensor (Oil-Temp and Tranny-Temp) do you recommend for using with the AEM EMS ? Any Part# ?

So how long will a stock auto tranny hold on say like a street tune around 18psi with the 72gts? I think I'm go that route here soon so I can finally get rid of that damn maf.

What Temp-Sensor (Oil-Temp and Tranny-Temp) do you recommend for using with the AEM EMS ? Any Part# ?

Here's a link to the AEM temp sensors which I recommend.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/AEM/Electronics/Sensors

So how long will a stock auto tranny hold on say like a street tune around 18psi with the 72gts? I think I'm go that route here soon so I can finally get rid of that damn maf.

I think you'll be fine at 18psi for awhile.

Chris.