Hi all, I've decided to give removing the sound deadening a shot since my interior is kind of out already and I don't have much to work on. Now right now I'm using one of the Craftman hardened steel gasket scrapers and a dead blow and the big chunks (but not the wavy metal part as much) are no problem to get out as long as you have the right angle. But sometimes you get left over with little thin traces left over that are a huge pain to remove.

I was wondering if anyone has a technique they like to use to get all those small trace out. Since my ultimate goal is to just put a layer of primer to prevent rust wherever I broke through the paint and put the interior back over it.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I just got out as much as I could and put carpet over it. I tried some hardcore paint stripper but that didn't even work that well as I expected. You've got the right idea on how to remove it, chisels work well for the wavy floor panels. If you're just putting the interior back over it, i don't really know what to say about preventing rust though. Maybe someone else can chime in cuz I'm not too sure.

well if you want to prevent rust build up in the interior especially from building up on the floor board and in those nooks and crannies just spray paint it with Krylon or something that would seal the surface so that way it could come out clean. Just remember to cover up those areas that you don't want to end up with specs of paint or where paint is not welcome. Beside that, I don't know what i can tell you either on the stripping of the sound proof padding that you are trying to remove. They are a total pain in the ass to take out but if you do it right and you use the right stuff, it would not be as bad as long as you have the patience to do it. Well thats about it, remember that just one can of krylon won't be enough, you probably might need at least 5-6 cans to get the whole thing.

Well, I have a full interior besides the back half of the car. So maybe what I could do, is just primer over the little slivers and get some very lightweight cloth or something and just put that in the back over it.

not a bad idea, but what you can do is that instead of using the average cloth to cover the back, why don't you use the carpet like material that they use to cover subwoffer boxes? its preety light and I knew someone that used that to cover the back of his MK3. The only thing is that are you willing to use that grey color that is with that material? You should be able find it at wherever they sell that material which seriously I have no idea of where they supply it. Give it a shot and find out, if you find it let me know and I should be able to explain the proccess from there.

Yea, thats a good idea. I do know a shop that I could probably get that carpet at, you can buy all other kinds of DIY stereo stuff so I'd imagine that they sell the carpet...

Also, my interior is light grey, so a dark grey carpet can't hurt.

I guess you've never seen my interior.

http://deprived.krypt.com/DSC00678s.JPG
http://deprived.krypt.com/DSC00685s.JPG

The resin left behind from the sound deadener is near impossible to get COMPLETELY off. What I used was some spray sealant and a carpet kit from my local auto parts store.

Yep, I've read through your post about weight loss and everything. Although I see you just matched where the deadening was, I kind of don't like the way it looks. For some reason it looks patchy in the picstures.

I may just paint it and leave it and see how it goes. But if it just looks too bad for me to stand I'll try and get some of that speaker box stuff since it is very tough.

AGlobalThreat - do you have any pics of how you stripped weight out of your dash by the way? Would I have to lose climate control to do it?

Stripping the weight out of the dash means removing all vents lines controls and braces so all you have leftover is essentially the skin of the dash with the ?foam? reinforcement. If u go that far for weight reduction then the heater/ventilation components should be long gone... and then the climate controls would be useless

Oh okay, I won't be going that far. Also I do not think I'm going to be able to get the black mat off of the firewall unfortunately because I for some reason didn't realize that I'd need to remove the heater core, which I really do not feel like doing just before winter, to find out I've broken it.

I'm almost done and I'll post up some pics of my findings and weights of what I got out if I can.

i realize that you may be beyond this step, but have you thought about using dry ice, or perhaps a can of that compressed computer duster air? if you turn that thing upside down you may be able to freeze whatever tar/sticky stuff and get a hammer and break it when its brittle.

I did hear people talking about things like that in AGT's thread before, but I did not try it because I didn't really want to have to buy anything else.

The worst part by far in my car was the section in front of the front seats. It's like double layer with fabric in the middle and very very well stuck to the floor. The easiest was the center console and under the driver and passenger seats; pass side actually came up in one huge sheet.

One problem I now face is like 7 or 8 holes in the floor that were previously covered by sound deadening that I didn't know were there. So I'm open to suggestions on that, at this point I was thinking just put some duct tape over them since they will not rust - being primered. But I don't know. I am happy overall with rust, there was very little and where it was its only very thin surface rust, worst on my car is the spare well, and then minor above the rear fenders, much better then other Supras I've seen.

Back is not painted yet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/SoundDeadening003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/SoundDeadening002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/SoundDeadening001.jpg

looks great. how did you get the sound deadening out in the 1st place?

Well, I bought a 1in Craftsman gasket scraper and used it (upside down actually worked amazingly while rightside up it was so sharp it would simply dig into metal) along with a 3lb dead blow hammer. And to my own suprise it still seems as sharp as when I bought it; hardened steel is some tough stuff I suppose.

It wasn't bad at all for me to gut the interior either since this would be the 3rd time doing it in a MKIII.

i am still debating whether i should remove that crap and spray rhino liner on the inside and use it as a truck.

well rhino liner may be a good idea but if you are gonna go for weight savings, I highly reccomend that you don't use it because believe it or not, that stuff weighs more than the carpeting, way more. we are talking about an extra 40-60 lbs of that black stuff lined out throughout the interior. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use but its just adding more weight to your car than what your sound deadening and the carpeting would do when it was there. Not a bad idea but not good if you are gonna go for weight savings.

yeah thats what i was thinking as well... it would also make the car sound sooo loud inside. but extra weight is bad in already heavy car. well, if i can lose 60 lbs it may be worth it... hahahah

I wouldn't do it. As shadow said, that stuff probably weights a ton. If you want no carpet though just paint it or something; it wouldn't turn out too bad I don't think.

EDIT: final numbers are roughly 35lbs total removed weight.

just one question, what are you planning to do with the car since now you removed the insulation and the sound deadening? Are you planning to add a rollcage in? let me know so I can see what I might be able to reccomend for both a design and also what materials you can use.

Well, it will remain my daily, so a cage is a bit extreme. I know you prob all think I'm insane for doing stuff like this to my every day car, but I like it.

Anywho, now I have no job anyway so I won't be doing anything any time soon I'm afraid. But after this I was going to go carbon hood and headlights; and then make my car be the best in the bends it can be.

well if you are gonna go carbon fiber hood, highly reccomend CFX. Exact look to stock or go an inch higher on the cowl of the hood. Overall, the craftsmanship of them are quite exceptional so overall they look great. I am sorry to hear that you lost job, that trully sucks. Sucks even more that now it slows you down on the project. Don't worry there will be another day that you can conquer.

Oh yea of course cfx is the way to go for sure in my eyes. Initially I was going to get their nose as well but I decided probably it doesn't have enough vent realestate to use the oil cooler I have planned. I forgot to add as well I'm going to get a set of sparco buckets to drop a few pounds there as well.

It's okay, that was the most horrible job on the planet IMO. A new place is opening up around my house so I'm going to try that for a yr before I go to UTI; then after that I won't have to be too concerned about work any more unles something horrible happens...

This is with the trunk done
http://x12.putfile.com/11/32721312154-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=11/32721312154.jpg&s=x12)
http://x12.putfile.com/11/32721284899-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=11/32721284899.jpg&s=x12)

What in the world is all that stuff on there?

Looks like duct tape or sound insulation.

Looks like duct tape or sound insulation.

ya its sound insulation, It is blank because DYNAMAT cost so much and I found a cheaper place :D www.b-quiet.com
U can compare the price at that site

Oh okay, I thought it was duct tape as well, but did you chip out all the sound deadening just to put more into it?

Too much weight for me :p

Oh okay, I thought it was duct tape as well, but did you chip out all the sound deadening just to put more into it?

Too much weight for me :p
Ya, most of it. It took some time That stuff is thiner like 1.15mm thick

Oh okay, so it basically is like tape.

Oh okay, so it basically is like tape.

Ya like realy sticky tape
It makes a quieter ride