Besides not making power past 6k, what do I need to do in order to rev higher on the 2JZ-GE? Valvesprings? I plan on doing a turbo upgrade and the bigger question I guess should be, should I do a GTE head swap or drop in a GTE long block (or complete swap)?

complete swap you wont be disapointed

If you do the entire long block, you'll need a new ECU and several other components. It will be a lot more expensive but you'll have more ultimate power potential. I suppose you need to decide how much power you're really going to want to make.

Chris.

If you do the entire long block, you'll need a new ECU and several other components. It will be a lot more expensive but you'll have more ultimate power potential. I suppose you need to decide how much power you're really going to want to make.

Chris.


Thanks for the advice, but from my understanding the GE isnt really that limited in power output. Ive seen many 650+whp dynos on the GE long block (with stock internals + metal head gasket). Since this is within my power goals, I question if the extra $5k for a swap is really necessary. Basically Im looking at a single turbo setup and manifold setup no matter what, therefore I question what the big advantage of doing the GTE swap.

well for one thing im almost positive your going to need a new tranny and rear end cause as far as i know they cant handle over 500whp i belive that it will cost u over 5k your going to need a single kit and fuel system some sort of fuel controller.

Thanks for the advice, but from my understanding the GE isnt really that limited in power output. Ive seen many 650+whp dynos on the GE long block (with stock internals + metal head gasket). Since this is within my power goals, I question if the extra $5k for a swap is really necessary. Basically Im looking at a single turbo setup and manifold setup no matter what, therefore I question what the big advantage of doing the GTE swap.

I'm making over 1000rwhp on my stock GTE block. stock pistons, stock rings, didn't touch anything on the stock shortblock. 650rwhp is a far cry from that. Even with a small HPF67 kit, you can make 700+ rwhp with a stock GTE motor.

Chris.

As stated, Im not looking for 1000whp, to be honest, Im probably not even looking to make 650whp. Thus, I dont necessarily feel as if I need to spend $5k on the GTE swap since my goals are easily obtainable on the GE motor. As stated in my first post, I would like to rev higher (personal preference) and I do plan on doing a turbo upgrade with a relatively small turbo. As far as a new rear end and tranny, Ive seen people pushing 650whp on them. They might break, but I'll upgrade them as needed. The rear end is pretty mucht the same as the TTs but with different gearing to my understanding, so I dont think its a problem. As far as fuel management I plan on going with AEM EMS, which Ive had in a previous integra of mine and was fairly happy with (and obviously Im not talking about the same unit, but the unit made for the supra). Thus, Im not really worried about the bottom end or tranny in a power handling manner, but just want to know what I need to rev my GE motor higher (obviously the AEM will let me rev higher, but what mechanical things do I need). Yes I know that somebodys going to pipe up and say some crap about all I need is torque and I dont need to rev higher, but coming from a gsr revving to 9k+, this 6250 crap is not cutting it.....especially with my whooping 160whp in a 3600lb car.

Edit: In short, whats needed to rev the GE motor higher besides engine management and something to push the power up higher?

I guess my question wouldve been easier if I stated like this, "Are 2JZ-GE and 2JZ-GTE valve springs the same?" From the way this link (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_93-98/Ferrea/Engine/Valve_Springs) sounds (links officially sound) they are the same. Is that correct?

If 650rwhp is your target, then by all means stay with the GE motor. If you switch the head, it will allow you to run cams (which add about 50-75rwhp). As far as revving high (like 9K), you shouldn't do that in the Supra unless you have a monster turbo and are making 1,200+ rwhp. Revving high causes undue wear and tear on the motor and you WILL be slower at 9,000rpm than at 6,700rpm (your power peak - turbo charged). You should shift right at the power peak so the shift occurs slightly after the power peak. Once you have the AEM you can set your peak rpm to any limit you want. You'll also need to tune the fuel curve. You'll find that the amount of fuel you set the AEM up to inject gets less and less after peak torque. This is because the motor is less efficient and can't consume the same amount of fuel. As you get to 9k rpm, those #'s will be very small. Even I set my rev limiter to 8,200rpm.

Chris.

Im not planning on revving it to 9k, but coming from 9k to 6k is a shock, therefore I would like to rev it slightly higher (7-7500ish). To my understanding that the GTE head can rev that high on stock valve springs but nobody seems to know about the GE. Im really looking for a nice setup for my daily driver because the whooping 165whp isnt cutting it. Some people would say that 650 is too much for a daily driver, but I think in a 3600lb car its about what I want (magic word of "I"). Thanks for the help and Im sure that Ill have many more questions to come.

I've ran my stock GE motor (with 264 cam) to 8200rpm with no problems.

Im not planning on revving it to 9k, but coming from 9k to 6k is a shock, therefore I would like to rev it slightly higher (7-7500ish). To my understanding that the GTE head can rev that high on stock valve springs but nobody seems to know about the GE. Im really looking for a nice setup for my daily driver because the whooping 165whp isnt cutting it. Some people would say that 650 is too much for a daily driver, but I think in a 3600lb car its about what I want (magic word of "I"). Thanks for the help and Im sure that Ill have many more questions to come.

(Any thing said below is assuming that your NA redline is that same as the turbo model)
What you have to do is change how you feel about running an engine that doesn't rev up to high RPM's like a honda motorcycle engine. You don't have to rev all engines to 15K to make power you know (I'm exagerating here for emphasis) Engines are all different. Toyota don't rev their engines to the high RPM's that Honda does and so they are different.

You can probably safely overrev your Toyota engine up to about 110% without doing anything to the valve train (to around 7500RPM). If you want to go any higher you will need a good set of aftermarket springs to keep the valves from floating and anything else you can do to lighten the valve train. As the 2JZ-GE & GTE engines go, as stock, they are non interference engines, unlike Hondas. If you start changing the cams to higher lift you will lose the non interference advantage.

As I said at the start you need to change your gut feeling about an engine not making horsepower if it is not reving to high RPM's There are engines that make all of their horsepower below 3K RPM. So it is a matter of how the engine is built...

Thanks, I have no problem against having a lower redline, but higher rpms + same torque = more power. Thus, I'd like to rev the motor until it stops making power, which with the turbo setup I plan on running should be around 7k or so. Beats me, I'll put it on the dyno and cut it off where it needs to be.

Thanks, I have no problem against having a lower redline, but higher rpms + same torque = more power. Thus, I'd like to rev the motor until it stops making power, which with the turbo setup I plan on running should be around 7k or so. Beats me, I'll put it on the dyno and cut it off where it needs to be.

If your NA has the same redline that a turbo model has then you should safely be able to turn up about 7500RPM without valve float and thus attain what you are talking about without spending a whole bunch of extra money. I think you will not gain much if any power overall but of course that depends on what your curves look like. However you should be able to sustain some higher power for a longer period of time by increasing your redline. There again it all depends on where your HP and Torque peak out and what the curves look like.

When you do the turbo job please keep us posted of how it goes and what all you do as we are all interested in hearing what you do...