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View Full Version : GReddy JZA80 Oil filter relocation


flubyux2
10-18-2005, 03:17 PM
Since mark probalby wont take the time to post this up.. i will, since i had to deal w/ the installation.

This kit is high quality and a perfect fit... if you are RHD. if you are LHD, you will have some fitment problems.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/Images/Products/Greddy/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits.jpg
Retail information (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/Greddy/Cooling/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits/part/)

in your kit, you will have this stuffs;

1 Bolt-on adaptor for stock oil filter mount
1 threaded female hose barb for oil filter adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for oil filter adaptor
-female barb "bolts" down greddy adaptor to stock oil filter mount, you can clock the adaptor in any position.
-male barb threads into outer hole of greddy adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (longer threads go in center port)
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (short one goes on outer port)
4 allen key plugs to block off oil pressure/temp ports on oil filter adaptor/mounts
4 simulated AN hose end fittings w/ worm gear clamps
2 lengths of braided SS hose
2 bolts to affix metal mounting bracket to remote filter mount
1 metal bracket to bolt remote filter mount to lower bellhousing bolt
1 length of plastic split wire loom to cover one braided hose
4 seals for the hose barbs
1 o-ring for the filter adaptor

Use Teflon tape to seal the threads of the 4 allen key plugs, and tighten them into the ports of the remote filter mount and adaptor. place the simulated AN hose ends onto the braided lines. be sure the o-ring is installed on the filter adaptor before putting it on the stock filter mount.
obviously, you remove the stock filter. watch out for oil spillage if you have recently run the car. if its been sitting a while, the spillage may be minimal. take the only hose barb that has female threads on it and use this to fasten the GReddy filter adaptor to the stock filter mount. orient the hose barbs so the outer barb is in its lowest position. tighten the male-threaded hose barb into the filter adaptor on the engine.

on the bell housing, there is a 14mm bolt. it currently holds the bracket for the stock clutch slave cyl. hardline. remove this bolt and bracket. spread the bracket tangs apart to fit around a 12mm shank bolt. loosen a bell housing bolt just below the starter and relocate this hardline bracket to the higher bolt. youll need to "persuade" the hardline to sit higher. the hardline bracket is not wide enough to fit around the shank of this bolt, thats why you have to spread the tangs. now, after bolting the metal L-shaped bracket to the oil filter relocating mount, bolt it to the lower bolt that used to hold the slave line bracket. mock it up and position it so it doesnt sit too low.

run the braided lines, clamp them onto the filter adaptor on the engine. be sure its secure. you may have to put an 8mm socket onto a 1/4" drive ratchet to get in there. you will HAVE to use thsi tool to tighten the clamps on the filter relocating mount since it will now reside just above the steel engine cradle. when you install the hose barb with short male threads into the filter relocation mount, make sure you use your included seal. when you install the hose barb with longer male threads, be sure to use the seal and tighten the **** out of it. the reason is, the filter will now spin onto the exposed threads from this barb. if its not tight enough, youll spin the filter on, and tighten it, and it could cause the hose barb to back out of the filter mount itself and cause a leak... ask me how i know :aiwebs_02

by now, you should have the oil filter adaptor mount on the engine, the ports plugged, 2 braided lines running rear ward. then, your stock slave cyl hardline bracket should be relocated to a 17mm bolt directly below the starter bolt. the freed up bolt on the lwoer bellhousing should be supporting a metal bracket with the remote filter mount bolted to it. the braided lines should be clamped onto the 2 nipples which should be tightened all to hell into the remote filtermount. the remote filter mount should have plugs threaded into it also. you should be able to take your stock toyota filter and spin it onto your relocated filter mount, just like stock. dont tighten too much, because you dont want the threaded barb to back out the otherside of the remote filter mount.

here is a pic of someone else's remote filter mount. his has a modified bracket. my instructions are for use with the SUPPLIED bracket, unmodified. the clutch slave line is moved to the bolt that holds the oil filter. and the oil filter then moves down to the smaller bolt below. with this, the filter sits parallel to the tranny and next to the inspection cover. it sits right above the steel crossmember.

FYI, the oil lines CAN and will ride against the steering shaft. this is because the greddy kit was engineered around the RHD cars that dont have a steering shaft on the same side as the filter. i beleive that the plastic wire loom is supplied for LHD cars as addtional abrasion resistance where the hose meets the steering shaft. the other alternative is to cut the hose short and pull it tight and make a harder turn as it exits the oil filter adaptor on the block.

Turbo-Joe
10-18-2005, 06:21 PM
can this be used on the 1J too?

flubyux2
10-19-2005, 12:54 AM
most certainly my friend. ask me more questions so i can post more replies ;)

Turbo-Joe
10-19-2005, 02:03 PM
whats your middle name lmao


eh, i dont mind where the oil filter is. its not as bad as the 7M for sure. i hated that thing. i can get to my 1J one from the top with pretty easy access. its nothing id wanna spend money on that i only do every few months

flubyux2
10-19-2005, 02:33 PM
my middle name is Sean... as in sean connery, as in james bond. at least, thats what my mom had in mind when she picked it out for me.

the oil filter relocation kits are kinda cool. i put one on my ex's car when i did the swap. i mounted it right on the driverside frame rail, behind the foglight. its so easy to change the oil, you dont have to jack up the car at all. you just need a long arm to reach the oil pan bolt. but, the kit i used on her car, had longer lines, so it gave you more freedome of filter placement.

WarpDriveKid
10-21-2005, 10:03 AM
Hello Chris, do you have any pics of this mod installed? I've seen the HKS fitment and it was killer.

flubyux2
10-21-2005, 03:57 PM
i can try to get pics of it next time we are in the shop... but with the hurricane coming, it may not be till sometime next week.

722ish
11-17-2005, 01:32 AM
HEY HEY HEY, watch it there chris.. i would take my time to post such things, but i couldnt here, i couldnt log on until 2 days ago haha... nevertheless the kit itself isnt too bad, the fit and finish is good, just designed around an MKIV RHD. However, in regards to the threaded filter adaptor and barb, it DOESNT thread off anymore, there was some negligence during installation, as my arm hurt like hell and i couldnt lift it past my shoulder, so i was sidelined to onlooking, rather than working. As the last few days of the project came down, i started to do a few more things, however, this amongst a loose fuel feed line, and another bit of the kit was loose was just due to a ginger installer who was afraid to crank down some on these parts. We cranked down on the fittings some more now, and i dont think you are starting a leak with a crowbar and a hammer!

I hope chris helped someone here while pretending to be stephen king, writing his novels and all....

again, the kits themselves arent bad at all, and im not sure i would go for the HKS as ive never even seen it, but everything they sell is so expensive, so im not sure i would pick it up if it were more expensive. The greddy was a gift, and im glad now, i can change the oil real easily now! Plus the mounting and filter hardware come with plenty of ports for an oil cooler and or gauge and reference ports, def. makes things somewhat easier! All in all something i would buy again for an mkiv, the little bit of test fitting and such was well worth it to me, and it wont be that difficult or cost much more than 20 bucks the next time around!!!


Mark