flubyux2
10-18-2005, 02:17 PM
Since mark probalby wont take the time to post this up.. i will, since i had to deal w/ the installation.
This kit is high quality and a perfect fit... if you are RHD. if you are LHD, you will have some fitment problems.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/Images/Products/Greddy/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits.jpg
Retail information (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/Greddy/Cooling/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits/part/)
in your kit, you will have this stuffs;
1 Bolt-on adaptor for stock oil filter mount
1 threaded female hose barb for oil filter adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for oil filter adaptor
-female barb "bolts" down greddy adaptor to stock oil filter mount, you can clock the adaptor in any position.
-male barb threads into outer hole of greddy adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (longer threads go in center port)
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (short one goes on outer port)
4 allen key plugs to block off oil pressure/temp ports on oil filter adaptor/mounts
4 simulated AN hose end fittings w/ worm gear clamps
2 lengths of braided SS hose
2 bolts to affix metal mounting bracket to remote filter mount
1 metal bracket to bolt remote filter mount to lower bellhousing bolt
1 length of plastic split wire loom to cover one braided hose
4 seals for the hose barbs
1 o-ring for the filter adaptor
Use Teflon tape to seal the threads of the 4 allen key plugs, and tighten them into the ports of the remote filter mount and adaptor. place the simulated AN hose ends onto the braided lines. be sure the o-ring is installed on the filter adaptor before putting it on the stock filter mount.
obviously, you remove the stock filter. watch out for oil spillage if you have recently run the car. if its been sitting a while, the spillage may be minimal. take the only hose barb that has female threads on it and use this to fasten the GReddy filter adaptor to the stock filter mount. orient the hose barbs so the outer barb is in its lowest position. tighten the male-threaded hose barb into the filter adaptor on the engine.
on the bell housing, there is a 14mm bolt. it currently holds the bracket for the stock clutch slave cyl. hardline. remove this bolt and bracket. spread the bracket tangs apart to fit around a 12mm shank bolt. loosen a bell housing bolt just below the starter and relocate this hardline bracket to the higher bolt. youll need to "persuade" the hardline to sit higher. the hardline bracket is not wide enough to fit around the shank of this bolt, thats why you have to spread the tangs. now, after bolting the metal L-shaped bracket to the oil filter relocating mount, bolt it to the lower bolt that used to hold the slave line bracket. mock it up and position it so it doesnt sit too low.
run the braided lines, clamp them onto the filter adaptor on the engine. be sure its secure. you may have to put an 8mm socket onto a 1/4" drive ratchet to get in there. you will HAVE to use thsi tool to tighten the clamps on the filter relocating mount since it will now reside just above the steel engine cradle. when you install the hose barb with short male threads into the filter relocation mount, make sure you use your included seal. when you install the hose barb with longer male threads, be sure to use the seal and tighten the **** out of it. the reason is, the filter will now spin onto the exposed threads from this barb. if its not tight enough, youll spin the filter on, and tighten it, and it could cause the hose barb to back out of the filter mount itself and cause a leak... ask me how i know :aiwebs_02
by now, you should have the oil filter adaptor mount on the engine, the ports plugged, 2 braided lines running rear ward. then, your stock slave cyl hardline bracket should be relocated to a 17mm bolt directly below the starter bolt. the freed up bolt on the lwoer bellhousing should be supporting a metal bracket with the remote filter mount bolted to it. the braided lines should be clamped onto the 2 nipples which should be tightened all to hell into the remote filtermount. the remote filter mount should have plugs threaded into it also. you should be able to take your stock toyota filter and spin it onto your relocated filter mount, just like stock. dont tighten too much, because you dont want the threaded barb to back out the otherside of the remote filter mount.
here is a pic of someone else's remote filter mount. his has a modified bracket. my instructions are for use with the SUPPLIED bracket, unmodified. the clutch slave line is moved to the bolt that holds the oil filter. and the oil filter then moves down to the smaller bolt below. with this, the filter sits parallel to the tranny and next to the inspection cover. it sits right above the steel crossmember.
FYI, the oil lines CAN and will ride against the steering shaft. this is because the greddy kit was engineered around the RHD cars that dont have a steering shaft on the same side as the filter. i beleive that the plastic wire loom is supplied for LHD cars as addtional abrasion resistance where the hose meets the steering shaft. the other alternative is to cut the hose short and pull it tight and make a harder turn as it exits the oil filter adaptor on the block.
This kit is high quality and a perfect fit... if you are RHD. if you are LHD, you will have some fitment problems.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/Images/Products/Greddy/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits.jpg
Retail information (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/Greddy/Cooling/Oil_Filter_Relocation_Kits/part/)
in your kit, you will have this stuffs;
1 Bolt-on adaptor for stock oil filter mount
1 threaded female hose barb for oil filter adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for oil filter adaptor
-female barb "bolts" down greddy adaptor to stock oil filter mount, you can clock the adaptor in any position.
-male barb threads into outer hole of greddy adaptor
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (longer threads go in center port)
1 threaded male hose barb for filter relocating mount (short one goes on outer port)
4 allen key plugs to block off oil pressure/temp ports on oil filter adaptor/mounts
4 simulated AN hose end fittings w/ worm gear clamps
2 lengths of braided SS hose
2 bolts to affix metal mounting bracket to remote filter mount
1 metal bracket to bolt remote filter mount to lower bellhousing bolt
1 length of plastic split wire loom to cover one braided hose
4 seals for the hose barbs
1 o-ring for the filter adaptor
Use Teflon tape to seal the threads of the 4 allen key plugs, and tighten them into the ports of the remote filter mount and adaptor. place the simulated AN hose ends onto the braided lines. be sure the o-ring is installed on the filter adaptor before putting it on the stock filter mount.
obviously, you remove the stock filter. watch out for oil spillage if you have recently run the car. if its been sitting a while, the spillage may be minimal. take the only hose barb that has female threads on it and use this to fasten the GReddy filter adaptor to the stock filter mount. orient the hose barbs so the outer barb is in its lowest position. tighten the male-threaded hose barb into the filter adaptor on the engine.
on the bell housing, there is a 14mm bolt. it currently holds the bracket for the stock clutch slave cyl. hardline. remove this bolt and bracket. spread the bracket tangs apart to fit around a 12mm shank bolt. loosen a bell housing bolt just below the starter and relocate this hardline bracket to the higher bolt. youll need to "persuade" the hardline to sit higher. the hardline bracket is not wide enough to fit around the shank of this bolt, thats why you have to spread the tangs. now, after bolting the metal L-shaped bracket to the oil filter relocating mount, bolt it to the lower bolt that used to hold the slave line bracket. mock it up and position it so it doesnt sit too low.
run the braided lines, clamp them onto the filter adaptor on the engine. be sure its secure. you may have to put an 8mm socket onto a 1/4" drive ratchet to get in there. you will HAVE to use thsi tool to tighten the clamps on the filter relocating mount since it will now reside just above the steel engine cradle. when you install the hose barb with short male threads into the filter relocation mount, make sure you use your included seal. when you install the hose barb with longer male threads, be sure to use the seal and tighten the **** out of it. the reason is, the filter will now spin onto the exposed threads from this barb. if its not tight enough, youll spin the filter on, and tighten it, and it could cause the hose barb to back out of the filter mount itself and cause a leak... ask me how i know :aiwebs_02
by now, you should have the oil filter adaptor mount on the engine, the ports plugged, 2 braided lines running rear ward. then, your stock slave cyl hardline bracket should be relocated to a 17mm bolt directly below the starter bolt. the freed up bolt on the lwoer bellhousing should be supporting a metal bracket with the remote filter mount bolted to it. the braided lines should be clamped onto the 2 nipples which should be tightened all to hell into the remote filtermount. the remote filter mount should have plugs threaded into it also. you should be able to take your stock toyota filter and spin it onto your relocated filter mount, just like stock. dont tighten too much, because you dont want the threaded barb to back out the otherside of the remote filter mount.
here is a pic of someone else's remote filter mount. his has a modified bracket. my instructions are for use with the SUPPLIED bracket, unmodified. the clutch slave line is moved to the bolt that holds the oil filter. and the oil filter then moves down to the smaller bolt below. with this, the filter sits parallel to the tranny and next to the inspection cover. it sits right above the steel crossmember.
FYI, the oil lines CAN and will ride against the steering shaft. this is because the greddy kit was engineered around the RHD cars that dont have a steering shaft on the same side as the filter. i beleive that the plastic wire loom is supplied for LHD cars as addtional abrasion resistance where the hose meets the steering shaft. the other alternative is to cut the hose short and pull it tight and make a harder turn as it exits the oil filter adaptor on the block.