Thoughts on solid motor mounts?

I have been kind of back and forth on this subject for a while now wondering if its worth it. So I was wondering if you guys could discuss any posotives or negatives to running solid motor mounts. Any better power responce/more snappy torque or something from the motor not torqing over all the time? Just seeing how much the starter can punch the motor over when i ws doing my timing belt got me thinking on this solid motor mount thing. One obvious downpoint is that you get more vibration at idle but I heard that after that its not too bad at all.

I have the older style 88 mounts on my 89 so all I'd need is them welded or to get them from jblmk3 for 50 bucks each.

Let me know! Thanks!

eh, i think unless youre going with a race car, semi-solids will be fine.

unless you like shaking the teeth out of your mouth :P

a have 98 supra mounts. they dont torque a whole lot like the 1J ones and they dont rip on the turbo side from long periods of heat and engine torque.

One thing to keep in mind is that the motor mounts attach to the subframe -- not directly to the chassis. This mean that even with solid motor mounts, the engine still has bushings insulating it from the vibration of the engine (granted it will be worse -- but not as bad as on most cars)

Because of this vibration; does it cause pre-mature wear or damage to the engine (putting extra stress on the block at those points) or the subframe its attached to?

I'm not as much concerned with how much its going to rattle me in the car as much as will it create any premature wear on the car itself.

It shouldn't

One thing to keep in mind is that the motor mounts attach to the subframe -- not directly to the chassis. This mean that even with solid motor mounts, the engine still has bushings insulating it from the vibration of the engine (granted it will be worse -- but not as bad as on most cars)

thats a good point.

I had to make a set for my brothers mk3 (I have the rubber mounts)and you can feel evreything the engine is doing I personaly would not go to a solid mount it takes away from the smoothness of the car.

i had my stock rubber mounts replaced with with some stiffer rubber mounts, though i wouldnt go polyurethane unless u really want rigidity in the car, lintlars is right it does take away from teh smoothness of teh car...teh rubber mounts absorb some of the vibration and noise..so i think its a good thing

I rode in a car with solid mounts, I really didn't notice much of a difference. It was a little bit stiffer ride :iono:

Hi Loki you must be thinkin the sub frame mounts when I drive my bros car I car feel the difference it feels ghetto like Im driving a cement truck compared to the stock motor mounts

Hi Loki you must be thinkin the sub frame mounts when I drive my bros car I car feel the difference it feels ghetto like Im driving a cement truck compared to the stock motor mounts


No, I rode in GrimJack's car. He has solid motor mounts, it might be different if you are driving but then again I changed to H&Rs and Tokicos and didn't notice it was much stiffer than stock. Only going over train tracks I really noticed it had gotten stiffer :iono:

meh i ahve solid motor montes in my car and love it

only bad thing is if i given here i can see my mirro very will ti vibteas and such

but all around driven eh it fine for me

oh and there so easy to amke just grab you stock monte and weld a plate on both sie of the monte and you are done

i would not weld them in or up. i just did a stage 3 clutch in mine and i could not get the tranny out without removing the mounts and dropping the motor down to make room for the tranny to go back far enough for the ourput shaft to clear the thrrowout bearing thats attatched to the pressure plate. well it came out ok... but it would not go back in without removing the mounts temporarily. lol

what will gain with solid mounts over stock mounts? i perfer a smooth ride myself and my motor only moves maybe a 1/2 inch when reved up? maybe your mounts are needing to be relplaced? I gotta be able to see out the mirrors man and keep the coffee in the cup, not the floor..... hahahha just my thoughts.

lol. you guys are funny. i snickered a bit reading those posts.

i used full solid mounts when doing the 1jz swap... and using a sprung hub puck style clutch, you can feel Every bit of chatter that the clutch produces. the headlights even bounce up and down at night because the chatter permeates the car so easily w/ solid mounts.

and ive dropped 3 subframes in 3 different cars before. the 6 bolts that hold the subframes to the frame rails have no bushings. there are bosses welded to the subframe and there are "bushings" that are supposed to mount between the body and the subframe. but they do absolutely nothing to isolate NVH from the subframe and the body. the rubber on the "bushings" does not reside between the mounting boss and the mating surface on the frame rails. the bushings have rubber bonded to a thick metal washer. this metal washer is actually what sits between the frame rail and the subframe. when the 4 long bolts are tightened down fully, any rubber that is between the subframe boss and frame rail is compressed so tight, it may as well not exisit. the rear 2 bolts that fasten the rear of the subframe to the frame rails have no isolator/insulator/bushing. they just hold the subframe directly to the body.

the "bushings" on the 4 bolts in the front subframe show no resemblance to legitimate bushings likethose used on the rear subframe or truck cabs that mount to full-frames.

i personally would suggest using non-solid mounts for a daily driver. the abundance and ease at which NVH can invade the vehicle is crazy and gets tiresome REAL fast on a daily driver. even with someone who is used to driving a puck-clutch, solid mounts transmit every bit of vibration. it makes it seem as though the driver doesnt know how to drive the puck clutch because any amount of chatter makes it look like the driver is incompetant.

man, im glad you mentioned the clutch chatter, Mine was ok leaving the driveway, but after that, the chatter made me feel like i didnt know how to drive a stick.. hahahha So i pulled mine back apart and re-installed a stock disk with the stage 3 pressuer plate, its so sweet now. max grip under loads and still a little slip on take off. so i have an extra stage 3, 6 puck disk if any one needs it.. just holler at me...

yae whould be one down fall to solid motor montes pulling tranny is harder i just drop the sub frame some works great slide in and out with the tranny

is that 6-puck a sprung hub and who made it?

Nash, do you jack your car way up in the air and then drop the subframe and slide the assembly out from under the car or what? i didnt really think it was easy to do it that way because with the engine sitting on the subframe, its probably a bit higher than i would want to jack up th ecar. got any pics of the process?

Personally I think solid motor mounts on a supra defeat the point of owning a supra. Ive had solid mounts in a few vehicles and if you plan on using the car as anything other than a toy dont bother. I think it ruins the enjoyability of the car because vibration sux you might as well ride a harley or somthin.

well it's easy as hell to dropt eh sub frame you cna drop it about humm 4 incs

more if you take unbolt the shock's and stuff


it's pretty easy to do

unbolting motor montes is apain i tell yae esliy lineing them bakc up man i hate that shit

ahh, gotcha, so everythng else stays attached to the car but the cradle will drop away from the motor?

do oyu just support the motor weight w/ the cherry picker?

btw, do you unbolt the steering shaft too? i imagine youd have to.

well pending on how muhc you wana drop or tilt what i do is unbolt the sub frame take one really long bolt and put it int eh hole clsoe tot he fornt fo the car and tiel the sub fram down some since the sub fram eis on bushing that move alot really

I run solid mounts on my car and is a daily driver for the most part. I personally think it is fine. Never have I heard that the headlights and whole car shaking due to this mod ... :aiwebs_00. It is however a little vibration throughout the car ONLY when you are over 90 plus mph. (At least im my car). I have a cage and a bunch of other mods that make my car stiff and again I feel that it is fine.

My .02

Maybe read this thread closely and determine from this what your needs are as it is after all your car to drive.

Duane :)

i think what we, and duane, are speaking of are 2 different instances of vibration. the NVH during crusing/driving/accelerating/deceleration/shifting is different than that of clutch engagment/standing starts.

engine vibration encountered while the clutch is released and full power is transmitted to the wheels is negligible w/ solid mounts. any increase in vibration during those circumstances is typically quite tolerable.

however, the qualms i have with solid motor mounts involve aggressive puck-style clutches and lightweight flywheels. the problem occurs during slipping of the clutch. the clutch chatter that happens is transmitted directly to the vehicle and its violent enough to make the headlights shake. if you have a puck clutch and dont like to rev the engine out and slip the clutch at 2000rpm, then you may be like me; i dont like clutch chatter making its way into the car. if i have clutch chatter, id much rather isolate it w/ some rubber mounts. im pretty sure i can figure out a way to use MKIV motor mounts in the 89.5+ cars. if that works out, itll be a better alternative to solid mounts.

So where can I get motor mounts? Both solid and stock.

So where can I get motor mounts? Both solid and stock.


Stock ones I'd say get them from Champion Toyota, as for solid ones you can get them made at basically any machine shop. Here is a link to a thread with the dimensions for them

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3098

Why would wanna do this?? If is not for racing....

I've never heard of a MKIII with bad motor mounts because of too much power....

I have been kind of back and forth on this subject for a while now wondering if its worth it. So I was wondering if you guys could discuss any posotives or negatives to running solid motor mounts. Any better power responce/more snappy torque or something from the motor not torqing over all the time? Just seeing how much the starter can punch the motor over when i ws doing my timing belt got me thinking on this solid motor mount thing. One obvious downpoint is that you get more vibration at idle but I heard that after that its not too bad at all.

I have the older style 88 mounts on my 89 so all I'd need is them welded or to get them from jblmk3 for 50 bucks each.

Let me know! Thanks!

flubyux2 I understand what your saying. I have the mods as you speak of and again mine does not chatter...? Hmmmmm I do however have the HPF (Horsepowerfreaks) 6 puck clutch and is more slippable than most. I had the RPS and is was terrible. It is a somewhat harsch clutch but nothing like what your describing. Then again it will depend on what your set-up is. Different clutches will make a difference.

HPF's is the way to go :)

Duane

yeah, feramic seems quite good as far as a frictionmaterial.

my personal experience with horrible clutch chatter is a sprung hub 3-puck copper/ceramic disk with a 12lb flywheel and stock pressure plate. i think the reason this clutch chattered so bad, or at least why it was so noticable, was because of the 3puck design and the fact that it was on a lightened flywheel. i think both of those factors were compounding the problem. and the solid mounts just made the problem that much more obvious.

i personally would like to do a multi disc setup. id rather do a clutch that can hold 1000rwtq ONCE than go thru 2 or 3 clutches because i keep making more and more power. once i go big, i stay big... it may just get bigger ;)

[QUOTE=flubyux2]is that 6-puck a sprung hub and who made it?

chris or fluby, or anyone if you were asking me? sorry for the delay.. its an XTD 6 puck with only about unabused 100 miles on it.. let me know if ya interested


this is the one i got off ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-STAGE-3-RACING-CLUTCH-87-92-SUPRA-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33730QQitemZ80135 75620QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
i dont think ill be needing it...probly use a stage 2 disk if i ever get this new stock disk to slip,,,