Here's a collection of tips I have from doing several fuel systems.

Pumps In the Tank
Here's a picture of what 2 stock pumps look like. They are very healthy pumps. If you're just running 2 of them, they will fit just fine. Running 3 is a little tough. Walbro's are used by most and are slightly slimmer. I like them because they flow 90psi and they last for a fair amount of time. They're also cheap and due to the slimmer design you can run 3 of them in your tank without fitment issues. I don't like them because the exiting nipple is a cheap metal clip, rather than a hard plastic nipple that the stock pumps have. This metal clip can easily come off and if you lose it you'll need to buy another pump.

Underneath your spare tire, if you take the 6 nuts off and pull the cover off, this is what you'll see. You'll then need to remove the large ring. You can do that pretty easily with a very large pair of pliars (if you want to call them that).

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/GasTankBefore.jpg

Then simply lift the center section out (do this carefully as there are things that will catch. there's also a rubber hose underneath that needs to be disconnected before you can get it all the way out) and you'll see this

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/StockPumpInTank.jpg

Here's a picture of 2 stock pumps apart from the hanger.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/MKIVStockPumps.jpg

When putting the new pumps in the hanger here are some tips.
1. Use a magnetic shield inbetween and around the pumps. All electrical motors create inductance, and in this particular case, the inductance will slow the operation of the adjacent motor. The magnetic shield will block the inductance field.
2. You can simply use large clamps to hold the two or three pumps to the hangar.
3. Be careful around the fuel level sender. That can easily pop off and break.
4. The picture shows rubber line. DO NOT USE THIS IF YOU'RE GOING TO RUN RACE FUEL. Race fuel eats away at this rubber line and it will burst after about 1-2 months of race fuel left in the tank.
5. I also recommend using easy disconnects for all of the electrical connections. For the amount of times I've pulled the pumps out, without easy disconnects, that would have really been a pain.
6. NOTE: This picture is not the optimal setup. I have since wired in three pumps with very nice fittings instead of hoses, but I can't find the picture, so here's my old one.

Here's a picture of 2 walbros strapped to a hanger

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/WalbroPumpsInTank.jpg

When you connect new aeroquip hose to the top of the fuel pump hanger, you do not need to run it outside of the cover as I've seen many people do. They will fit snuggly through where the other fuel line goes. It just takes a little effort but is well worth it as you don't want the fuel line going inside your car.

I'm missing a bunch of pictures of my new setup, so I'm using old pictures. Here's a pic of the fuel rail in position on the head. Make sure you take the old spacers off your old injectors. You will want to put these on your new injectors. If you lose them, the only place I've ever seen them is in a new engine overhaul kit. Also, if you're running Bosch style injectors (these come in most fuel systems) you will need to push the 6 spacers into the head. That's what your injectors will fit in. The 2 fuel lines coming from your fuel pumps go into each side of your fuel rail. The center return hold in the fuel rail goes into the side port on your fuel pressure regulator. The bottom port on your fuel pressure regulator goes to the return line going back to your tank. I use the stock return line and I also use one of the hard feed lines for one side of my rail. At idle, you'll want to set the fuel pressure to be approximately 40psi.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/NewFuelRail.jpg

Wiring Section
You want to make sure you're using very beefy wires for the fuel pump. I prefer to take the power directly from the starter (unless of course your battery is in the trunk). I took all the ground wires and bolted them to a solid metal ground. Make sure you use a 40amp relay or better, and thick wires. Make sure you use a 40amp fuse or better and put it as close to the starter as possible so if there's a short, your fuse will pop first.

Here's a checklist of all the things you will need for wiring in 2 pumps. This is what we sell on our site as the 2 fuel pump wiring kit.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/FuelPumpChecklist.jpg

He're a diagram I put together for how each fuel pump should be wired.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/miscellaneous/fuelsystem/FuelPumpWiring2.jpg

If you're using the stock ECU and a VPC, remember, the VPC will only read to 26psi so if you're going past that, I recommend an AEM or MAP ECU. Also, the stock ECU will adjust the fuel during closed loop. Be sure to reset the ECU after you adjust your fuel pressure.

Once you get everything set up and ready to fire, connect just one pump. Turn the fuel pressure regulator all the way up. You should get around 90psi. If you get less than 80psi, I'd get a new pump. When you disconnect the pump, fuel pressure should drop very slowly. If it drops fast, then you have a leak somewhere. Do this for each pump. Once you're done, turn the fuel pressure back down to 40psi and start the car.

If you have any feedback, let me know.
Chris.

Nice write-up!

Hay chris, I know you are running on 3 pumps and your 3rd pump turn on at low boost. Don't you think that at low boost when the 3rd pump is not yet started, the reverse pressure will be leaking through it and force the car to run lean.
adil

Hay chris, I know you are running on 3 pumps and your 3rd pump turn on at low boost. Don't you think that at low boost when the 3rd pump is not yet started, the reverse pressure will be leaking through it and force the car to run lean.
adil

The pumps don't allow backflow. No pressure will be lost across a pump that isn't turned on.

Chris.

what kind of price can we work out on a fuel system for me considering just going all out when i get my new motor

Can you put the after pic I like to see where you hide both relays and extra wiring in the trunk.

Chris,

Do you have a recommendation for an appropriate fuel filter that's compatible with an aftermarket fuel system?

Thanks,
-scott

will reply to these shortly. I'm still looking for my old pics.

I just used an aeromotive inline filter. You can find them for 80-90 bux. I think they are -10 in / out so you will need to get a reducer.


Jesse

Hey guys... my friends and i just wrapped up a full fuel system on a car and we ended up doing virtually the same process. there were only a few differences that we made.

-fuel pump interconnect harness in the tank was separated. the original in-tank power wire goes to pump one + terminal. the original in-tank ground goes to the pump two + terminal.
- Fuel pump ground wires were created. 14ga wires run directly from fuel pump - terminals to the fuel pump hangar. on the back side of the hangar, the fuel level float is affixed w/ 2 phillips screws. make the ground wires w/ ring terminals on each end. obviously, one ring terminal goes to the ground on each corresponding pump. the other ends of the ground wires go to each of these screws. the fuel pumps now ground to the hangar.
-TIG weld stock 8mm bolt upside down to the top of the fuel pump hangar. create 10ga ground cable w/ ring terminals. find appropriate nut to fit the new "stud" and affix the new ground cable. clean the paint off one of the trunk floor near one of the 6 studs that hold down the tank cover. ground your cable to the chassis/body via this stud as the cover sandwiches the ring terminal to the body.
-use stock banjo bolt to connect one pump to stock fuel line... obviously
-drill 9/16" hole in fuel pump bulkhead and braze a -6 JIC steel male/male fitting, or buy -6AN bulkhead fitting from earls/russel/aeroquip/etc. tighten a -6 JIC steel female hydraulic hose end WITHOUT the swaged fitting. the exposed nipple works perfectly as a hose barb. connect pump 2 to this nipple.
-Use a single DPST relay to turn on both pumps. use the single 10ga fuse 12v constant pulled from the underhood fuse box to feed the relay. there will be TWO 12v output tabs. connect each of these 2 tabs to the STOCK fuel pump wire harness that passes thru the trunk floor. you will have 2 14ga wires, and 3 22ga wires. the 2 thicker wires are the STOCK power and ground going into the fuel tank for the old single pump. these wires are now reroute to both be 12+. see this diagram for help

http://mkiv.com/manual/1995_electrical_manual/I/95elec_072.JPG

the New switched 12v power supply wires from your new DPST relay should run to the W-B wire and the L or L-R wire depending on what part of the harness you cut into. if you cut into the harness closer to the body, it L-R. if you cut into the short harness as it goes thru the trunk floor, its L. (L=blue)

the 6-12v source you need to trigger your relay on and off will be taken from the 9-12v output wire of the fuel pump ECU. this wire is the same L-R wire that youve already cut to send power to the new pumps. so, power will now come out of the fuel pump control, thru the L-R wire, into the relay, switch it on, and then go directly to ground, via new 12ga wire that you make.

figured which part of the L-R wire to solder into can be sort of tricky just reading this, but once you look into the power flow of wires in the trunk, itll all make sense. sorry for the long ass post. just had to make it while it was fresh in my head.