Well I currently get no traction on the street when I go WOT in first gear. If I continue the pull and shift into 2nd I don't grip until about the middle of the 2nd gear powerband (5500rpms) and then when I shift to 3rd I get a tiny bit of wheelspin but not much. Now for most NA guys this is quite hard to even acquire in the first place, and I'm still on stock suspension (Besides KYB struts) AND have the front strut bar removed (Allows the front to come up more for better weight transfer and better traction). Since I'm going to be installing H&R's soon, and they're stiffer/lower, does this mean I will get even LESS traction due to the body no longer slamming backwards when I go WOT?

FYI I have new 225/50/R16 Goodyear Eagle GS-D's mounted on my FD rims.

I doubt the H&R's will make traction worse. They are stiffer, but you also wont be getting as much negative camber upon acceleration (when the rear suspension squats it gains negative camber so you dont get the full contact patch on the ground).

Other tips: Relocate the batter to the passenger rear side. Make sure you use a battery box with a vent tube routed out of the cabin -- and if you plan on going to the tracks -- an external cut-off switch

Sounds like your tires are worn out.

Chris.

Sounds like your tires are worn out.

Chris.

I guess u missed the part where I said the tires are new :hihi:

sounds like what weight reduction does:)

-shaeff

The stiffer springs wont change weight transfer, just the contact patch, as already pointed out. If you had solid metal beams instead of springs, the weight would still shift under acceleration.

Other tips: Relocate the batter to the passenger rear side. Make sure you use a battery box with a vent tube routed out of the cabin -- and if you plan on going to the tracks -- an external cut-off switch

Why the passenger side? to offset the driver? Isn't the gas tank already to the passenger side? Guess you'd need to know the corner wieghts to figure it out.

The right rear is generally the lightest corner of the car, yes. The location of the gas tank helps, but even will a full tank it still is lighter than the left rear (when a driver is in the car).

Good to know!!

I guess u missed the part where I said the tires are new :hihi:

maybe theyre just not very good tires in the traction dept. i dont have issues holding tractions in 1st most of the time and youre not putting down more power than me, so.........

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&source=S13674x009-tr_indiv&code=yes&tireModel=Eagle+GS-D&keyword=Goodyear+Eagle+GS-D&

I have these new in 225/50/R16 on a 16x8 rim. I'll be sure to check tire pressures soon to see what they're at and fix them if they're too high/low.

Joe what size tires do you have?

265/40/17 in the rear. maybe 45. i dont remember off hand

What kind of tires are they? Didn't even notice the small sidewall.

BTW you don't break traction because the 1jz has no torque :p

What kind of tires are they? Didn't even notice the small sidewall.

BTW you don't break traction because the 1jz has no torque :p

Falken GR Bs and i make more torque then you everwhere :respekt:

Falken GR Bs and i make more torque then you everwhere :respekt:

Ha, only when you're in boost ;)

9.2 compression owns you. :respekt: :crazy01:

when am i not in boost? :dunno:

Those should be grippy tires, what air pressure do you have?

I'm checking it today so I'll find out. I plan on overinflating the rears to 40 psi and the fronts to 42 or so psi. I do a lot of highway driving and having less of a contact patch will give me better acceleration due to less friction. I will probably get even less traction in the low gears, but I don't often drive reckless from low gears so the only difference I should notice will be better gas mileage on the freeway and better acceleration in 3rd 4th and 5th :snork_tan

I don't want to be buying new tires soon, and since gas prices are so high I'll just be staying out of the throttle even more than I already do (Maybe a couple WOT pulls per week, if that).

:woowoo:

Tire pressures were waaaay low.

Driver front: 20 psi
Passenger front: 20 psi
Driver rear: 20 psi
Passenger rear: 15 psi!!!!!!

Now running 40psi all around, this will be fun ;)

I hope you are kidding about 1J no torque. My car is extremely more heavy then yours and I know for a fact that if I put your 225s on my 1J it will roast them to death. I lose traction in first with 265 Nitto 555s.

Anyway, I haven't seen 225s really hold much of power at all. A combination of low end torque, tall diff, and a light ass is causing the problem. Have you relocated the battery to the back? This helps, slightly. The lighter you make the rear, the less traction you will have.

Haha yea it was a joke. The first other supra member I hung out with (Carson) had a 1jz. Even with the stock NA exhaust he could still break traction in 1st gear :respekt:


Well my traction is pretty much ok. I did notice a big difference in higher speed acceleration now that my tire PSI's are fixed, and low end is still fine. Ever since removing the front sway bar my traction problems have become totally dependant on the surface, before I would just slide no matter where I was, now I really have to punch it to get them spinning.

I will probably relocate the battery to the back, but I'm not in the mood to spend more money on a gel battery and box just yet. Once I get my H&R's installed I know that will convince me that I want a lower rear so I'll probably do it then :crazy01:

My car is running excellent, and as the old saying goes, if it aint broke don't fix it.