ok to start i just got done rebuilding my engine (7m-ge) and putting it back in the car (86.5). the idle varies between 1300 and 1700, i have a 9lb flywheel, but it still shouldn't idle that high. when the car is cold it idles around 1300 and once it heats up it idles up. when stoped at lights it holds consistant idle around 1700; i have to tack it up to have the idle drop down to 1300. all that can be replaced was replaced during the build. also since i took my head off and put a cometic mls on it the heater doesn't work. it blows air but it is ambian air temp. i think when i poped my old headgasket the perssure in the coolent lines may have broken the heater controle valve (if that is posilbe). does anyone know where to start on any of this??

thanks for the help. its apperciated, and at that fast of an idel gas isn't cheap lol. thanks again

The 1st thing that jumps out to me is your idle.
If you aren't catching heat while running I would almost bet you have some type of sensor out.
I'm guessing at that. Do you have the timing advanced??? You may try to retard it so it will idle right. Only adjust timing while the engine is cold.

the timing is set to the factory setting i avoided changing it. and all of my heater relays work. i checked the relays with a standered resistance test.

How did you avoid changing it???
You should check it.

i marked the rotor on the distributor when it was ay tdc and slid it back in place after i replaced my headgasket. i checked anyway and it read at about 13 degrees on the crank and my chiltons says 15 when the wires ar jumped in the code read out plug. i figured the 2 degree loss is in the .010" redeck and 1.7mm mls hg. it actualy idled good (about 900rpm's) whin those pins are jumped. is that to blypass some emissions b/s or what