hey all. i'm jason writing from NC and this is my first post here. i am in the process of bringing an '88 N/A back from it's 4 year vacation in the driveway. after all the work i've done to the brakes and fuel delivery; it seems i have blown a head gasket. but the question is will arp head bolts for a 7mgte work for my 7mge? i ask because everywhere i look there are only bolts listed for the turbo.

Yes they are the same. The bolt pattern is the same on both blocks.
Go with the studs. Much more performance than the bolts.

Welcome to the forum and keep us posted about your build and some pics would be cool if you can swing them.

alright thanks, i had a feeling they were the same. any special tools needed to install the studs as opposed to the bolts?

Just take it slow and pay attention. You want the head on the block first.
Then add the washers. You'll see slots for them inside the head. After that you can run the studs through. You may have to rotate your cams to get clearanc. You will need a torque wrench. ARP stus call for 8flbs of torque.

It's real simple if you just pay attention and don't rush. TSRM also comes in handy.

do you mean 80 ft/lb?

No sir.
ARP head bolts are spec'd at 80lbs.
ARP studs are specd at 85lbs. You do not want to torque straight to 85. Do it in a minimum of 3 stages. I used 5 stages. The more the marrier.

You'll see when you get them. The instructions clearly say 85.

Also you have to follow the bolt pattern and if you don't have it.

I do and I'll post it to you if you like. I may be able to send you a pic from my tsrm. Wich this book is around 75 bucks and it'd the best spent money.

That you can spend before you get started. Most of the bolts 8mm, 10mm.
12mm and 14mm. And some 19mm. For the oil drain plug and the crank pulley.

Don't use a 1/2 inch drive to pull this of. You need a 3/8ths torque wrench.
Just some fyi. For the head. You'll also need some 1/4 drive set with the same sockets aforely stated.

Good Luck.
And again.

Welcome.

You can delete the ac unit and weight reduse by 50lbs.
For every 100lbs you drop you will gain 1/10th of a second.
Go carbon fiber or we call it cf. Your stock hood weighs 54lbs.
The cf weighs 18lbs. Just a thought.

thanks again. i do have the bolt pattern from my ghetto haynes manual.

haha, the cf stuff is a little too involved for me; i like driving the supra, but it's as fast as i need it to be for now. (or it will be when i get the damn thing put back together.)

i'll be postin back up when i get the head back from the shop...

Good luck with that.

i can tell you this from experience don't torque the stock graphite gasket that tight and exspect it to be a race car it squashes into the cylended and if you downshit too many gears it will blow. i recomend a commetic mls hg

I wouldn't torque over 75lbs without an MHG.

by the way how hard is it to get the arp head studs out after a race season. i figure they might be a beoch with that little f'n alen key they expect you to use. i have gone through 2 graphite h/g and exspect to go through at least one mls h/g this season. i put the mls in with the arp's and torqued them to 100ft-lbs with 10w30 motor oil because that is what the instructions said (wow never thought i would say that).

They slip in and out if you used the molly.