i got a leak butt only over like 3500 rpms and whn it leaks it just pours till i shut the car off im not sure where it is butt positive its in the back of the motor im hoping its not the hg and if it is has anyone had anyluck with retorqing the head down

Retorquing is pretty much useless once there's already a leak... especially if it's bad enough to pass fluid.

At any rate have you checked your cam cover seals? Any oil down around the spark plugs? That's much more common of a leak.

If it's not your cam covers then I am willing to bet that you have a head gasket that is about but has not yet blown.

This is a BHG tell tale sign in my book.

does anyone know about how long it will take n cost to repair/replace the head gasket and do i need to resurace the head and block or wht and hits tips and posible help would be awesome

If you do the labor. You may be able to stick to it for right around 2 large.

large as in 2000 damn u have got to be shitting me i didnt even pay tht much for the car anyway i made it from my house to my job and no drips no nothing now i dont know exactly wht she's doin i keep the oil pressure low and didnt get on it and kept it under 3000rpm's and it was fine

That's exactlly what mine was doing. You may get another oil change out of it if you drive it like a yugo.

Yes 2 grand. 1,800 / 2,000.

Have you tightened your cam covers or what??

Check your radiator overflow bottle, tell me what is in it.
Check the underside of your oil cap and see if it has a milky look to it.
Check for smoke from the tail pipe.

When that thing goes..., it'll be a crap shoot as to wether you can get it home or not. If it were mine I would stop driving it.

Cause I know now what I didn't then. It sounds like you are about to shuck a head gasket from what you are saying and how my whip acted before I blew mine.

Try removing the exhaust manifold. See if the block is firmly pressed down to the block. I bet you have a gap. And when you hit high rpm's your losing oil from the top side. Somewhere. The engine will conceal alot of it. And checking after driving it only works if you give it time to drip. Check it before you leave.

I'm telling you. You have spent 5k and don't even know it yet.

My HG job cost me around $700... I had the head tanked and machined and the valve stem seals replaced (this ran me only about $125 total), my block was within spec so I just gave it a real thorough lapping. I installed new cam seals, distributor seal, thermostat and coolant hoses as well.

This figure does not include replacing the timing belt and tensioner or the water pump, it's recommended to get these out of the way at the same time.

As for time frame... it's going to vary depending on the machine shop and whether you end up waiting on parts half way through the job. I could redo mine in 1 or 2 days now... but when I did it the first time I kept having to order unexpected parts and wait, it took about 3 weeks total.

ok butt the oil isnt anywhere on the top half of the motor it kinda looks like the rear main seal under the cap is fine and overflow is good it looks like its comming from somwhere rihgt in where the tranny bolts to the block cause the top o tranny is clean and so is back of the motor but under is all oil butt i didnt lose oil pressure or notice a difference in oil level and it only strted this just after i did an oil change

OK, check your oil filter and oil drain plug.

Now we're getting somewhere. It could be the rear main seal.
The problem now..., is that if it keeps dumping and is able to reach the clutch you could smoke it. Cause it to slip.

Rear main seal would be a drip behind the door/fender gap. Put some card board down tonight dude.

CRE: When I was planning mine I was planning on changing everything I could sinse that was the easiest time to get to the starter and everything.
Alternator, all of that. So It could be done for less. I agree.

7,8 hundred bucks sounds about right. But you get a discount on your parts for having a shop. We don't. I'd have been hard pressed at 800 bucks.

Alot of things left untouched. Alot of shit left to nickle and dime me to death.

Lol, I don't have a shop... the guys at the stealership just started thinking I do. Not that I'm complaining. Even with a hefty discount I can still get most parts cheaper from Champion.

I agree on the leak possibly being the rear seal.

Well GD. I thought you either had or worked at a shop.
My bad.

Well GD. I thought you either had or worked at a shop.
My bad.

Nope, but it's getting to the point that I might have to open one... Hell, I don't even have a garage. :aiwebs_02

im positive its not the hg now i stuffed my han all around the back of motor and its clean well not oilly butt anyway its comming from where my tranny meets the blocktop of tranny is clean and under is cover butt i been being easy on her and nothing no leaks at all it only leaks whn i get on it and stay more thn 3/4 throttle from more thn 10 secs or soor if i get my oil pressure over 45/50 lbs

If I am not mistaken..., and I could be. It sounds like you just told us the main seal is about to shuck.

STOP driving the car. If it goes out while you are driving...., it will cost you a new tranny. Right now you just have a bad seal it would seem.

to replace it im guessing it will be cheaper thn a hg butt still a lot of labor

In all honesty. I don't have those tools.

This kind of thing...., I pay to have done.
I replaced my rear main seal and it was right 500 bucks.
I had it done at the dealership. I also had a clutch put in.

So...., it can't be that bad.

Ok Thnx I Got A Few Friends I Can Go To Who Will Do The Work Cheap For Me So Thnx

Ya I would think it would be around 250/300ish.

It depends on the mechanic. The seal it self won't cost but probably 10/12 bucks I'm guessing.

no dice i got it man my drain plug crack like half way and it was spraying and not touching around it butt shotting onto the tranny and exhaust so i just put in a new plug and its golden
thnx for all the help and info tough guys

Far out, Solid and Right on.

Drive safely.

LOL! Sweet! A cheap Supra oil leak!