I just finished a re-build of my motor. Is there any way to prime the oil pump before starting the engine. I re-built small block chevys before and I had a tool to stick down the distributor hole to spin the oil pump, and prime the motor. But on the 2jz the oil pump is driven buy the crank. Do you just start it up and let it build up pressure on it's own.

I just unplug the connectors so the injectors dont fire.. and crank the car over for 30 or so sec. Plug em in and fire it up.

You could pull the EFI fuse and let the engine crank to build some pressure before starting

Great idea thanks for the fast info. I think this forums is great. Helped me out twice today, thanks again guys

I've heard varying opinions on this. I recently took the advice to actually start the motor instead of priming it. This is because oil pressure instantly floods the system when you start the motor. If you just prime it, you could be spinning it for quite awhile before oil gets everywhere. I then change the oil and filter after about 1 minute of running. New blocks are very dirty unless properly cleaned by a machine shop. Then change it again after about 15 minutes of running.

Chris.

I've heard varying opinions on this. I recently took the advice to actually start the motor instead of priming it. This is because oil pressure instantly floods the system when you start the motor. If you just prime it, you could be spinning it for quite awhile before oil gets everywhere. I then change the oil and filter after about 1 minute of running. New blocks are very dirty unless properly cleaned by a machine shop. Then change it again after about 15 minutes of running.

Chris.

The first 15min is the most import part of starting a motor. start it and let it sit at a high idle... then change the oil. You got to make sure those rings seat.

How would you go about tuning a brand new motor with a standalone management? You certainly have to take it to different conditions/revs to get at least the ignition and fuel maps right. And since the motor will be started with base maps, it may not run right the first few minutes. I'm thinking running rich will affect how the rings will sit. It will be first started at a dyno, can I not tune under boost yet? Ron

im glad i found this...

for those of you with JZ engines... you would be best off bypassing your clutch safety switch if you havent already. cold cranking an engine with your foot on the pedal and less than 9psi of oil pressure at only 250ish rpm is a good way to kill your thrust bearings. unfortunately, ive seen it happen.

pull your plugs if you are trying to prime it also. you can get a faster crank speed, put less draw on the battery and stress the starter less.

and as far as break in is concerned... break it in how you intend on driving it. the last motor i built, i started it up and let it slowly rev to 4000 and killed the ign. when the rpms fall down to 1000, i turned the key back on and let it rev to 4000 again. i repeated this 5 or 6 times. oil pressure was high, rings seated instantly and the motor runs flawlessly. it had almost no oil consumption and no blowby/oil contamination in the first 3 oil changes over the course of 500 miles.

doesnt TRD say to break in their Race motors by redlining them a few times?