I'm thinking once i go full BPU (all bolt ons, up boost, fuel tune, cam gears), it'll be at the torque level where the stocker will start failing. so, before that happens, i'd like to toss out these questions for clutch/flywheel considerations.

i'm probably gonna go with a TRD single disk since that'll hold the hp for BPU+++, but i'm not sure if i need to get a new flywheel with it, and i don't want to risk not, only to find out i do. i'll go through the flywheel checks for sure when the tranny comes out, but if i do, what flywheel would you guys suggest for a smooth like stock engagement w/o any rattling or stuff like that? if "stock" is the answer i guess i can't say anything else, but if there is a better solution out there i'd like to hear.

you may be able to have your current flywheel turned and keep using it at a fraction of the price for a new one. I just put an oem flywheel on mine and I'm thinking I should have spent the extra $$$ for the alluminum fly wheel. But i'm not trying to upgrade heavily. I'm holding out for the gte swap, when I get into my golden years.hahahahaha

My $0.02: supramacist's suggestion would be good normal advice but I think for the MkIV it has to be taken in context ...that's a nice way of me saying he's apparently a MkIII type of guy and not such a MkIV expert. The stock MkIV TT flywheel is a dual mass DoLuk type that is specifically designed to dampen out tranny vibrations and noise, since our Getrag 6sp trannies are "notorious" for rattly sounds even when working perfectly. So the dual mass fw dampens out these noises and all is quiet on the western front. If your stock flywheel is in functional condition as far as the dampening springs and setup, there is a very small amount that can be cut to reface it, very little meaning I think it's only a few thousandths of an inch but better check the exact amount AND most importantly it has to be "dry cut", use no cutting oil since that has been reported to highly screw up the fw.

Since you seem to already have decided on the TRD single disk, I'm not sure what other fw options are compatible with that.

When I went BPU over 5 years ago, a couple weeks later I dyno'd and the first pull over 360whp trashed my stock clutch, I did drive it home 80 miles but immediately got a replacement. I went with the "controversial" HKS triple disk clutch and their matching LWFW. We had another dyno day a few weeks later and I dyno'd 435rwhp/455rwtq (ft-lbs). That was about 60,000 miles ago, and even with aggressive street driving and a few road course track days each year where I beat the living shit out of this clutch, it still works as good as the day it was installed ...make that better since it's well broken in. With the LW flywheel, I do occasionally get the rattle but not always and it never bothers me; OTOH, it revs up so fast it's like a motorcycle and allows me to shoot of out corners and into boost rev range so fast I just LOVE IT!!! The "majority" reports I keep hearing about how hard it is to drive this clutch and "slip it" are totally BS in my opinion, those guys just never stuck with it and learned to drive it. I drive my Supra often and I never have any trouble with this clutch under any circumstance.

Now that I'm installing a small single turbo setup, I'm still very confident that this clutch will hold up very well since it is rated and well known to hold over 1000hp and I will be a little shy of that number.

Only caveat I give it is that it is not an optimum clutch for drag racing.

http://home.comcast.net/~nickjt/Me_track_qrt_screen.jpg

thanks nick for the open n' honest reply about your experiences. i've learned to actually ignore supramacist's replies regarding everything anyhow.

i like the interesting part where you said just changing your fw and clutch netted you essentially a good 70rwhp. i was actually under the assumption that while the feeling of the power is more apparent, the actual power doesn't change. this is actually news to me, and... i guess maybe i'll take this into consideration even for my mk3 later on. but more to the mk4 right now since this thread was made for it:

i decided to go w/ a TRD single disk under the assumption that it's probably the smoothest, easiest to drive clutch for BPU. now, my choice is still not solid, but i was rather just reading chrisB's experience w/ clutches, which was what made me choose the TRD single:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/techarticles/clutchinstall/clutchreplacement.html

if anyone else has any inputs, or if nick you wanna reply back w/ opinions on the ratings, please feel free, i'd love to hear from you.

ahhh, sorry I left that wrong impression about power increase. I didn't mean that at all. My clutch started slipping big time when I hit 360whp on the stock clutch (which only had about 40k miles on it) and I had to immediately stop the pull. So the amount of power would have been about the same as it was a few weeks later ...except for the lwfw factor which may be more on the order of 10hp or so, not much.

The TRD single disk is a good clutch based on what I've heard over the years, plus ChrisB is a very reliable source of MkIV info. My mentality was to get a clutch that could "for sure" hold 500whp/tq and back 5+yrs ago, many of the MkIV guys around here who had gone with other clutches were having repeated problems I wanted to avoid, so HKS it was. Now adays there are more good choices than back then and maybe you'll hear other opinions here. Based on several local MkIV guys who drove my car with the HKS triple, it is not for most people.

I do have an mkIII a 91 to be exact but, I shudder at your neverminding me, that's fine. But......., my shit usually works. And we are all entitled to our opinions and I will be the 1st to admit I know next to nothing about the mkIV's. Sorry to have bothered you with a post you obviously didn't care about in the first place......., I mean WOW! that was like the ultimate disrespect. None the less I wish youthe best of luck with your ride enigma.

supramacist, I'm not saying this to make you feel better whether it does or not. I'm not sure why witeenigma feels that way, he may have his reasons. You do have your own style of communication and are kind of blunt and ...?... not sure how to describe what I'm thinking... but in any case I have not found you offensive or way off base, just blunt and pushy in your own endearing sort of way ;) I find all the various online personalities to be kind of interesting and dynamic and the good part is, I don't have to live with any of them, I can just log off or say my own piece.

I'm just short honest and to the point and occassionally I am right. Thanks

For BPU, I had the best luck with the ACT HD00 and a lightened flywheel, preferably the RPS segmented flywheel. The lightened flywheel should ONLY be used with a stock disk. Any other puck style disk will fuse to it because the lightened flywheel doesn't dissipate heat as well as the stock flywheel. The lightened flywheel gives you 20 extra hp, the ACT pressure plate has a 3500 lb clamp load which will provide a couple more passes before it slips, and the stock disk will give you more passes and more longevity than any other disk. I ran consistent mid 11's and a 11.42@123mph with this setup at BPU.

Once you go with a big single turbo, it's a whole different game as the stock disk will not hold the power. You must run a puck style disk or a multiple disk carbon clutch. If you run the puck style disk and drag race then you must run a stock flywheel or the disk material will fuse. If you run a multi disk clutch, be prepared for an on/off type engagement.

Here are the clutches that are available. Supra Clutches (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_93-98/Clutches-Flywheels/Clutch)

Take care,
Chris.